GEMSWORLD | 40 | 2023 INSIGHT | Olivia Quiniquini 程爱莉 | Demand for coloured gemstones is outstripping supply as the market restocks after production challenges and travel restrictions at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic. Gemstone miners registered strong – often record-high – sales at 2022 auctions while new and upcoming goods are poised to offer the trade and consumers greater variety for their coloured gem needs. Operations at Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine in Zambia and Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique have returned to pre-pandemic levels. Production targets for 2022 were 37,993,000 carats of emeralds and beryls at Kagem and 1,073,648 carats of rubies and corundum at Montepuez. In the first six months, Kagem had achieved 19,176,000 carats of emeralds and beryls while Montepuez yielded 1,616,000 carats of rubies and corundum. Both mines suspended operations in March 2020 and saw a phased resumption of principal operations a year later, reaching normal capacity by the end of May 2021. Sales records Travel restrictions, quarantine periods and congregation limits due to the pandemic disrupted Gemfields’ auction calendar, forcing it to pivot to online auctions and a re-mapped schedule. In 2020, Gemfields held its Kagem commercial-quality auction in February and then switched to a series of smaller multi-city auctions that November and December to sustain business amid lockdowns and other pandemic-related challenges. The following year, it achieved record-breaking auction revenues – a trend that continued into 2022. “The success of our multi-city auctions, combined with the introduction of an online bidding system, has provided greater flexibility for the Group in the ever-changing circumstances we encounter,” revealed Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson. “While we have now returned to a singlecity approach for each auction, the format has evolved and now includes an online bidding platform as standard.” Sales in 2022 reached record highs. Gemfields’ total auction revenues stood at US$316 million, up 32 per cent from its previous best of US$239.6 million in 2021. Emerald and ruby auction sales in 2022 both broke records, coming up to US$149.4 million and US$166.7 million respectively. “These results reaffirm the remarkable levels of demand prevailing in the emerald and ruby markets. Demand has been driven by the ability of customers to travel and meet again after the challenges that had been brought upon by the Covid-19 pandemic,” said Gilbertson. According to the company official, all qualities and sizes of Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies have been moving extremely well. “There has been strong demand coming from China as the Chinese luxury goods market continues to grow. China is increasingly becoming a strong consumer of our gemstones, as they can find a stable and reliable supplier in Gemfields,” he added. The miner has been actively engaging the Chinese market through education and marketing initiatives on the desirability of African gemstones. It compiles research on consumer insights, participates in jewellery fairs, organises media and trade roundtables and partners with Guild Institute of Gemology on hands-on media masterclasses on ruby and emerald. In 2022, masterclasses were held in Shanghai and Shenzhen. Sessions in Beijing and Chengdu sessions will be scheduled when restrictions permit. Social media campaigns on how to buy and how to style gemstones were likewise conducted to build consumer confidence. Gemstone miners are ramping up production to meet strong market demand for coloured gemstones. New gemstone deposits meanwhile open up a world of possibilities for the jewellery trade. 彩宝矿商正积极提高产量,以满足市场的强劲需求。一些全新的宝石矿源, 也令行业更多姿多彩。 Strategies from mine to market 宝石矿商的业务策略
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