GEMSWORLD 2023

GEMSWORLD | 37 | 2023 精辟洞见 In the 1980s, Biron commercially developed and manufactured hydrothermal synthetic emeralds weighing over 100 carats. Thesewere prized for their high transparency and for being free of eye-visible inclusions, whereas the new materials have a more natural-looking appearance. The Gubelin Gem Lab team found that the two samples’ water absorption and chlorine-related absorption were different from traditional hydrothermal synthetic emeralds. Chemical analysis done by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (ED-XRF) also revealed that both specimens showed very low concentrations of alkali elements, manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), gallium (Ga), rubidium (Rb) and caesium (Cs), while indicating high vanadium concentrations ranging from 9,000 to 13,000 ppm. According to the report, the two stones’ microscopic features are comparable to traditional Biron synthetic emeralds. These include “nail-head-like inclusions, twophase inclusions in ‘fingerprint’ pattern and as wispy ‘veils,’ unknown white particles and unknown low-relief transparent colourless inclusions.” The stones also had irregular, poorly developed v-shaped growth structure. "In summary, the studied new Biron hydrothermal synthetic emeralds have a different trace element pattern compared to its traditional type, namely vanadium-doped rather than iron and chromium. That leads to the different UV-Vis (ultraviolet-visible) spectra. Infrared spectra can easily distinguish its hydrothermal synthetic nature, even though its ‘jardin’ appearance might resemble a natural emerald,” Kwok stated in the report. Business prospects Inter-Pacific’s new Biron hydrothermal emeralds unleash manifold design and business opportunities for the jewellery manufacturing and retail sectors. “Our target clients are jewellers that manufacture higher-end jewellery with superior, natural-looking lab-grown gemstones. We expect the market to welcome our new stones with open arms since they closely resemble mined emeralds but come at a fraction of the cost and do not require any oiling or treatment,” Lo said. The new stones are priced at a premium over usual versions due to their more complex production process. Inter-Pacific’s new release is also timely, given rising market acceptance of lab-grown goods. Lo noted that consumers increasingly consider the environmental credentials of their purchases. Younger generations also shy away from spending large sums of money on jewellery with expensive natural gems. The soaring popularity and availability of lab-grown diamonds in recent years likewise help debunk misconceptions about man-made goods. “These market shifts indicate that lab-grown gemstones will truly take off in 2023, and our new Biron hydrothermal emerald will lead the charge,” Lo said. 内繁密的内含物。一系列宝石产品主要介于2克拉到5克拉 之间,并可限量生产最多10克拉的尺寸。泛洋控股有限公司 的董事总经理卢益新表示,目前市场上的实验室培育祖母 绿往往像玻璃般过于通透,令客户对效果更自然的宝石需 求大增,因而带动该公司开发这类产品。他解释道:“我们的 业务宗旨,就是向市场供应在颜色或外观上均散发天然美 的实验室培育祖母绿。我们已经成功创造哥伦比亚祖母绿 那种鲜艳饱满的色彩,现在更为懂得欣赏‘花园’宝石特质 的高端市场提供祖母绿产品。” Biron技术采用热液生长过程制造实验室培育祖母绿,在 1980和1990年代于澳大利亚开发后不断完善,培育工序目 前在香港地区进行。Biron水热法合成祖母绿具有与天然祖 母绿相同的宝石化学成分,但其生产过程往往令成品拥有 极少或缺乏内含物。因此,泛洋公司全新研制的“花园”祖母 绿,是技术上的重大突破。 古柏林宝石鉴定所主管Bonita Kwok提供的报告证实,泛 洋公司的新型Biron水热法合成祖母绿呈现“花园”内含物,同 时保持Biron实验室培育宝石的大部分特质,清楚显示为人工 合成宝石。报告指出:“出乎意料地,两颗新型Biron水热法合 成祖母绿均呈现出‘花园’般的特质,并非完全干净清澈。” 回溯至1980年代,当时Biron为商业市场研发和制造超 过100克拉的水热法合成祖母绿,凭借极致通透的质感和不 含肉眼可见的内含物而备受推崇。相反地,当今研发的崭新 品种,甚至拥有更自然的外观。 古柏林宝石鉴定所的团队发现,该两颗宝石样本的吸水 数值和与氯相关的吸收数值,均异于传统的水热法合成祖 母绿。此外,采用能量色散X射线荧光(ED-XRF)技术进行的 化学分析亦证明,两个样本均显示极低浓度的碱性元素、锰 (Mn)、铁(Fe)、锌(Zn)、镓(Ga)、铷(Rb)和铯(Cs),同时显示高浓 度的钒(V),范围为9,000至13,000 ppm。 根据报告所称,该两颗宝石的微观特征与传统的Biron合 成祖母绿类近,其中包括“钉头状内含物、呈‘指纹’图案及 扭曲‘面纱’状的二相式内含物、未知的白色颗粒和未知的 浅浮雕式透明无色内含物。”再者,这些宝石还具有未完全 成形的不规则V形生成结构。 Kwok在报告中指出“: 总括而言,被鉴定的两颗新型 Biron水热法合成祖母绿与传统类型相比,微量元素模式显 然有所不同,即当中掺杂了钒而非铁和铬,从而呈现不同的 紫外−可见光(UV-Vis)光谱。不过,即使其‘花园’内含物可能 与天然祖母绿相近,也可采用红外光谱轻易地分辨其水热 法合成特质。” 业务前景 泛洋公司的新型Biron水热法合成祖母绿,为珠宝制造和 零售行业开创多不胜数的设计和商业机遇。卢益新称:“我 们的目标珠宝商客户,都会采用外观自然的优质实验室培 育宝石制作高级珠宝。我们的全新宝石产品与天然开采的 祖母绿非常类近,但成本相对甚低,而且不需要任何浸油或 额外处理工序,相信会大受市场欢迎。”他补充说,由于生产 过程更加复杂,因此新型宝石的价格将会比普通版本为高。 观乎市场对实验室培育宝石的接受程度不断提升,泛洋 公司的全新产品正好把握先机。卢益新指出,消费者越来越 重视珠宝商品的环境认证,而且年轻一代也不愿意花费大 量金钱购买昂贵的天然宝石首饰。近年来,实验室培育钻石 的流行程度和产量大增,同样有助消除市场对人造宝石的 误解。他说:“市场上的各种变化显示,实验室培育宝石将会 在2023年真正迅速崛起,而本公司的新型Biron水热法合成 祖母绿将会引领行业潮流。” 泛洋控股有限公司推动创新领域,其新型实验室培 育祖母绿呈现内部“花园”(jardin),令视觉效果更 丰富自然。采用水热法制造的新型Biron祖母绿将 于2023年下半年面世,肉眼可见内部“花园”,即天然祖母绿

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