GEMSWORLD | 31 | 2023 精辟视野 Douglas Hucker has had a front-row seat to the evolution of the coloured gemstone trade over the years. The industry veteran steered the American GemTrade Association (AGTA) for 24 years before becoming CEO of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) in June 2022. In a talk with GemsWorld, he shares his assessment of the coloured gemstone market and his priorities at ICA. How has the transition from AGTA to ICA been? Douglas Hucker: The nearly 25 years I spent at the helm of AGTA were rewarding and truly defined my professional career. It is never a job if you really love the work. Being the CEO of AGTA allowed me to meet and interact with incredible people across the globe. My role at ICA is similar but with a much larger arena of members. Not often can one say they have held two dream jobs. The two organisations are very closely aligned: AGTA as an association of US and Canadian gemstone professionals, and ICA as an international group, perhaps more diverse in the mining and producing community. They both strive to achieve success for their members’ businesses and for the coloured gemstone industry now and in the future. What are the main challenges and growth opportunities in the coloured gemstone sector? Hucker: One of the major challenges is the change in the nature of the consumer. Young people today are not as inclined to introduce jewellery into their lives as did previous generations. We are not just competing with smart phones or other digital toys; we are competing for their attention. We must help future generations understand the inherent value, the inherent beauty and the inherent desirability of gems. There is also an entire generation of young people who, because of economic upheaval and the astronomical burden of education debt, have less disposable income to spend on jewellery. On the other hand, coloured gemstones benefit from the younger generation’s predilection for finding ways to express their unique identity. Coloured gemstones provide an enormous palette from which they can draw inspiration. Coloured gemstones are infinitely varied. They are passionate; they are visceral. They provide a vehicle for personal expression. They have a significant range of cost and lend themselves extremely well to the stunning talent of jewellery designers of all levels. How do you win younger generations over? Hucker: We need to engage them and grow their excitement about gemstones – not just among our customers but within our own industry. Sons and daughters reaching an age where they are entering their professional careers are a vital resource we need to cultivate. We must show them that the coloured gemstone industry is wonderful and exciting, educate them on the joy coloured gemstones can bring to their lives, and show how coloured gemstones can help them express their individual selves or become their creative muses. Younger consumers are incredibly attached to technology, but this can quickly become obsolete. Coloured gemstones, however, are eternal. There will always be beautiful gemstones cut by exquisite lapidaries andmounted in creative and dynamic jewellery. In short, gemstones indeed are forever. What factors are shaping the coloured gemstone trade? Hucker: The introduction of digital technology and the sophisticated growth in scientific methods to address identification, treatments, origins and the like have had a significant impact on the gemstone trade. As digital communication and technologies expand, even in emerging countries, these technologies are being applied to the sourcing, manufacturing, and distribution of coloured gemstones. Our communication methods are also increasingly digital. Meanwhile, ICA’s cooperation with laboratories enables them to have clearer insight into the materials produced in particular areas and allows for the development of data that is essential in determining origin. Likewise growing in importance are environmental, social and governance (ESG) issues, which are producing the fundamental principles governing all industries and increasingly dictating how jewellery and coloured gemstones are brought to market. What role can ICA play in ESG matters and the ethical sourcing of coloured gemstones? Hucker: Consolidation in the mining and production arena has impacted the artisanal mining community and the independent jewellery manufacturer. ICA is particularly proud of its beneficiation efforts in the artisanal mining sector. As dealers, we benefit from the beautiful treasures that come from the earth but also understand that those benefits come with responsibility. ICA has established a foundation whose sole purpose is to improve the conditions
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