world GEMS2023 Strategies from mine to market 宝石矿商的业务策略 Emerging favourites 彩色宝石新宠儿 A Publication US$20 Jewellery 宝世 石界 宝石世界 Vibrant year for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石大放异彩的一年
CONTENTS 目录 DIGEST 市场指标 187,775-carat emerald cluster sets auction record 187,775克拉祖母绿晶簇刷新拍卖纪录 8 FOCUS 焦点 Vibrant year for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石大放异彩的一年 10 Emerging coloured gem favourites 彩色宝石新宠儿 18 SHOWCASE 精品荟萃 Positive reinforcement 以色彩发放正能量 23 Colourful pursuits, refined designs 色彩纷呈的精致设计 26 PERSPECTIVE 精辟视野 ICA: Keeping in step with the times ICA: 与时俱进 30 INSIGHT 精辟洞见 Greenland Ruby eyes leading spot in gem trade Greenland Ruby锐意登上宝石贸易的领先地位 34 Inter-Pacific unveils superior lab-grown emeralds 泛洋控股有限公司呈献顶级实验室培育祖母绿 36 Miranda Group lays out its business strategy 美宏达集团制定商业战略 38 Strategies from mine to market 宝石矿商的业务策略 40 On the Cover 封面 Emerald Venus Necklace with a 19.30carat Colombian emerald centre stone and 62 emerald beads weighing a total of 130.77 carats from Bulgari's Eden The Garden of Wonders High Jewellery Collection 来自宝格丽奇境伊甸园高级珠宝系列 的祖母绿维纳斯项链，镶嵌了一颗 19.30克拉哥伦比亚祖母绿主石和62颗 总重量为130.77克拉的祖母绿珠子
Every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in GEMSWORLD 2023. However, the publication of such information is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publisher and the editorial team shall not be held responsible or in any way held liable for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in this publication, or for any consequences arising therefrom. The contents of this publication are protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced, photocopied, transmitted or posted in any form without the prior written consent of the publisher. 本公司已尽力确保《宝石世界2023》所刊登的内容正确无误。如因错漏而引致任何损失，本公司概不负责。本公司保留刊登有关资料的一切权利。版权所有，如未获得本公司事先之书面允许， 不得以任何方式翻印、仿制或转载本刊物任何部份之文字或图片。 Printed by Asia One Printing Limited,13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong. 印刷商: 宏亚印务有限公司香港柴湾丰业街8号宏亚大厦13楼 Associate Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Olivia Quiniquini 副出版人及主编 程爱莉 EDITORIAL 编辑部 Deputy Editor Bernardette Sto. Domingo 副编辑 杜明高 Assistant Digital Product Manager William Yick 助理数码产品经理 易昌耀 ADVERTISING 广告部 Assistant Director Christine Sinn 区域营业总监 冼蕙珠 Digital & Sales Manager Ken Chan 数码业务及销售经理 陈赞健 MARKETING 市場推广部 Senior Marketing & Communications Manager Ronny Pang 高级市场及传讯经理 彭秋影 Senior Marketing & Communications Executive Grace Tam 高级市场及传讯主任 谭淑恩 Marketing & Communications Executive Vincent Wong 市场及传讯主任 黄志伟 PRODUCTION 制作部 Production Manager Jennifer So 制作部经理 苏丽娟 Senior Designer Eva Kam 高级设计师 甘铭灵 Assistant Exhibition and Media Service Manager Bonnie Law 助理展览和媒体服务经理 罗凤伦 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES 广告代理 China 中国: 广州代表处胡淑晶 | Tel 电话: (86) 20 8666 0158 Email 电邮: [email protected] Germany 德国: Liz Dobelmann | Tel 电话: (49) 721 384 1881 Email 电邮: [email protected] Italy 意大利: Mauro Arati | Tel 电话: (39) 02048517853 Email 电邮: [email protected] Japan 日本: Nobuaki Nito | Tel 电话: (81) 3 52961020 Email 电邮: [email protected] Taiwan 台湾: Rita Hung | Tel 电话: (886) 2 2738 3898 Email 电邮: [email protected] Thailand 泰国: Anna Vichvech | Tel 电话: (66) 2 036 0500 Email 电邮: [email protected] US 美国: Bonnie Chan | Tel 电话: (1) 347 906 4693 Email 电邮: [email protected] President & CEO - Asia Margaret Ma Connolly 亚洲主席及行政总裁 马颖 Senior Vice President - Asia David Bondi 亚洲高级副总裁 庞大为 Director of Jewellery Fairs Celine Lau 珠宝展览部总监 刘小雯 Published by Informa Markets 出版 1701-1705, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔港湾道26号华润大厦1701-1705室 Email 电邮: [email protected] JewelleryNet.com
DIGEST GEMSWORLD | 8 | 2023 Dates of the next ICA Congress to be held in Dubai in 2023. With the theme, “The Future of Coloured Gemstones,” this pivotal, postpandemic event of the International Colored Gemstone Association will bring together stakeholders in the international coloured gemstone trade. Weight in carats of the Kafubu cluster, which became the most expensive single emerald item ever sold by Gemfields at its latest auction from October to November 2022. A total of US$30.8 million was generated from the auction, with 34 out of 37 lots offered being sold. An average price of US$76.78 per carat, including for the Kafubu Cluster, was achieved. Value of a custom-made, hand-painted ‘Fire Under Ice’ original artwork by artist Reena Ahluwalia. The canvas, depicting a dazzling ruby, was donated by Ahluwalia to Greenland Ruby through the Greenland Ruby x Reena Ahluwalia campaign, with all proceeds going to the PinkPolarBear Foundation. Nobuyuki Horiuchi, CEO of Japan-based Ambrose and Co Ltd, won the painting by lucky draw. He also received a free limited-edition NFT version of the artwork. 2023年国际有色宝石协会(ICA)年会的举行日期。这次年会将于迪 拜举行，并以“彩色宝石的未来”为主题，是疫情后的重大行业盛会。 国际彩宝业界的持份者届时将聚首一堂。 在10月至11月举行的Gemfields拍卖会上，一颗卡夫布祖母绿原 石晶簇(Kafubu Cluster)的克拉重量。这晶簇更成为该公司历来拍 卖价最高的单块祖母绿成交拍品。是次拍卖会的37项拍品之中 有34项售出，总收入为3,080万美元，包括卡夫布祖母绿原石晶簇 在内，平均拍出价格为每克拉76.78美元。 艺术家Reena Ahluwalia的定制手绘原创艺术品“Fire Under Ice”的价 值。这幅画作描绘了一颗璀璨的红宝石，由Ahluwalia通过Greenland Ruby x Reena Ahluwalia企划捐赠给宝石公司Greenland Ruby，所有 收益拨捐PinkPolarBear基金会。日本珠宝公司Ambrose and Co Ltd 的首席执行官堀内信之，在一次抽奖中赢得了这幅画作，并免费获取 其限量版NFT。 February 14 to 17 2月14至17日 187,775 US$10,000 1万美元 Almas Tower in Dubai 迪拜阿勒玛斯大楼 Harmony Video Production / Shutterstock.com Kafubu emerald cluster 卡夫布祖母绿原石晶簇 Nobuyuki Horiuchi, CEO of Japan-based Ambrose and Co Ltd, wins the ‘Fire Under Ice’ ruby painting by Reena Ahluwalia 日本Ambrose and Co Ltd首席执行官堀内信 之赢得Reena Ahluwalia的红宝石画作Fire Under Ice
市场指标 GEMSWORLD | 9 | 2023 The number of gem and jewellery items currently uploaded to the Provenance Proof Blockchain – the first comprehensive and fully functional blockchain dedicated to the gem and jewellery sector. Built and operated by sustainability start-ups Provenance Proof and Everledger, it provides a digital, decentralised ledger based on blockchain technology that traces gems from mine to end-consumer. To date, over 500 professional users have joined the initiative, including more than 120 jewellers and manufacturers. Weight in carats of the largest gem-quality ruby ever discovered in Mozambique by Dubai-based Fura Gems Inc. Named ‘Estrela de Fura,’ the extremely rare, vivid red rough gem is a historic find and places Mozambique in the spotlight as a source of premium-quality rubies, with some of the finest gems equalling their Burmese counterparts in beauty and rarity. According to Fura Gems, the ruby, whose Portuguese name translates to Star of Fura, is unrivalled, thanks to its extremely rare vivid red hue, fluorescence and clarity. Origin of the largest sapphire aggregate ever unearthed, according to Guinness World Records. Weighing 503.2 kg (1109 lbs and 5.86 oz), the ‘Serendipity Sapphire’ was found by Ashan Pavithra Gamage in a village south of the major gemstone trading centre of Ratnapura in Sri Lanka. It officially became a Guinness World-Records holder in Zurich, Switzerland on February 11, 2022. 上传到原产地证明区块链(Provenance Proof Blockchain)的宝石和珠宝 信息数量。这是首个针对宝石和珠宝行业的综合且功能齐全的区块链。 这个在线平台由可持续发展初创企业Provenance Proof和Everledger共 同构建和运营，提供以区块链技术为基础的数字化及去中心化分类账， 可追溯宝石从矿区至终端消费者的整个过程。迄今为止，已有超过500名 专业用户参与，其中包括120多家珠宝商和制造商。 迪拜的Fura Gems Inc.在莫桑比克发现的最大颗宝石级红宝石的重量。这颗极 为罕见、鲜艳的红色原石被命名为"Estrela de Fura"，这项历史性的发现使莫 桑比克被视为优质红宝石的产地，其中一些最优质的宝石，在美丽和稀有度 方面可媲美来自缅甸的同类宝石。据Fura Gems公司称，这颗红宝石的葡萄 牙语名字翻译为"Fura之星"，因其极为稀有的鲜艳红色色彩、荧光和净度，被 形容为"无与伦比"。 根据吉尼斯世界纪录大全， 有史以来最大型出土蓝宝石晶 簇群的产地。这块重503.2公斤 (1,109磅5.86盎司）的蓝宝石 名为“奇缘蓝宝”(Serendipity Sapphire)，由Ashan Pavithra Gamage在斯里兰卡主要宝石 交易中心Ratnapura市以南的一 条村庄发现，并在2022年2月11 日在瑞士苏黎世正式纳入吉尼 斯世界纪录。 约400万 Around 4M 101 斯里兰卡 Sri Lanka ‘Estrela de Fura’ ruby Estrela de Fura 红宝石
FOCUS GEMSWORLD | 10 | 2023 | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | Traders forecast glowing opportunities in the coloured gemstone industry in 2023, driven by steady demand for rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and other emerging gems, coupled with strong post-lockdown recovery in major markets. 彩宝业内人士预料，在红宝石、蓝宝石、祖母绿及其他新兴宝石的持续 需求带动下，加上主要市场于后疫情时代强劲复苏，2023年的前景 将会一片光明。 Vibrant year for coloured gemstones 彩色宝石大放异彩 的一年
焦点 GEMSWORLD | 11 | 2023 Solid market appetite supported by steady rebound in major economies will bolster the coloured gemstone trade in 2023 amid global challenges, demonstrating the sector’s resilience and stability. According to industry players, gemstone royalties ruby, sapphire and emerald will play a crucial role in business growth, but equally stunning, finer-quality gems such as Paraiba tourmaline, spinel and aquamarine, to name a few, are also expected to contribute to robust demand. Red gemstones are likely to gain more traction in 2023, with the Pantone Color Institute naming Viva Magenta – a shade displaying vivid crimson hues – as colour of the year. A colour that radiates vigour and vibrancy, Viva Magenta is expected to inspire jewellery designs highlighting the beauty of ruby and rubellite as well as red spinel and garnet. Other gems that fall within this colour category are rhodochrosite and red jasper, among others. With sturdy demand, prices are also on the upswing, especially for gemstones that are harder to come by, but buyers do not see this as a deterrent. In fact, gems bearing finer colours and other exceptional qualities will continue to be highly favoured in the market since these are viewed as a great store of value. Year of opportunities According to Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association, 2023 is poised to become a phenomenal year for coloured gemstones. Demand for ruby, sapphire and emerald is growing from strength to strength in major markets like the US, Europe and Asia. Prices too are reliable indicators of growth. Sabbagh said the industry has been seeing high double-digit price increases for premium-quality gemstones over the past two years. Moving forward, prices will sustain this upward trend, especially for superior gems. “Our outlook is positive, with the big three – sapphire, ruby and emerald – leading business recovery,” shared Sabbagh. “The market is more cautious because of macroeconomic uncertainties and fears of recession in 2023, but we remain upbeat about prospects in the gemstone trade.” Besides thebig three, other gemstonesare likely to remain popular in 2023, including spinel; tsavorite; tourmaline in different shades of green, blue and red; Paraiba tourmaline; and aquamarine. These gems had a strong following in 2022 and this trend is expected to continue in 2023. Some gemstones however are more difficult to source nowadays, which could lead to further price hikes. Sabbagh explained that some mines, particularly smaller, artisanal mines, are finding it challenging to bounce back to full production after the pandemic as opposed to bigger mines with more modern machinery and resources and that can ensure steady production. “When mining is halted, it takes a great deal of work to resume operations – miners need to work the earth, pump water, among other processes, to get the mine back to what it was before,” he said. “Also, periods of supply shortage for specific stones are a common occurrence; smaller mines do not produce stones all the time.” Gemstone royalties Adrian Banks, managing director – Product & Sales at coloured gemstone specialist Gemfields, described 2022 as an “excellent” year for emeralds and rubies amid ongoing challenges, especially in China. “We have witnessed a step change in market demand and in the prices bid by our customers, paving the way for an exhilarating cycle in the coloured gemstone sector,” noted Banks. “The second quarter of 2022 deserves special mention when extremely strong demand was enjoyed for all qualities of emeralds and rubies.” Gemfields’ auctions for commercial- and high-quality emeralds, and mixed-quality rubies held during the quarter all set new record highs. Its emerald auction in November 2022 generated revenues of US$30.8 million, including the sale of the Kafubu Cluster – the most expensive single emerald item ever sold by Gemfields. This brought 2022 sales from its Kagem emerald mine to a record US$149.4 million. Its ruby auction in June 2022 also delivered record revenues for any Gemfields auction at US$95.6 million while its latest sale, held from November 21 to December 8, achieved US$66.8 million. This pushed 2022 revenues from Gemfields’ Montepuez Ruby Mining Ltd (MRM) auctions to US$166.7 million. In total, Gemfields raised a record US$316 million from its ruby and emerald auctions in 2022, up 32 per cent from 2021.
FOCUS GEMSWORLD | 12 | 2023 Buyers are also becoming more accepting of other sapphire colours. Chinese consumers used to favour only Royal Blue and Cornflower Blue sapphires but are now regularly looking for lighter colours such as pink or peach. The European market is also more open to other, more unconventional sapphire colours. Growth in 2022 was mainly fuelled by the US, followed by Europe and some business from China amid restrictions. Sammoon also remains upbeat about prospects in 2023 for the sapphire sector, driven by robust market demand. “Buyers have become more knowledgeable and are constantly on the lookout for special gems. We expect this trend to continue throughout 2023 despite ongoing economic hurdles. Sapphires will always remain highly sought after in the trade,” he added. Market overview The year 2022 sawmarked improvements in the coloured gemstone trade, with many dealers using stronger sales in the ruby, sapphire and emerald markets as benchmark for growth. According to A. Wahid Ansari, director at Thailandbased emerald specialist Ansabro Gem Co Ltd, top-quality emerald, ruby and sapphire of 1 carat to 5 carats are moving the fastest. Citing market trends, he said per-carat prices, which hugely depend on the stone quality, currently stand at US$200 to US$5,000 a carat for ruby, sapphire and emerald. Ansabro’s major markets are China, Europe and the US, but Asia is also showing promise, noted Ansari. “Myanmar and Vietnam are exhibiting signs of improvement,” he added. “We are optimistic about prospects in 2023, but it is crucial for China to reopen. If this does not happen early in 2023, it could have a tremendous impact on global trade.” Consumer appetite for coloured gemstones is on the rise, especially for goods bearing exceptional colours, remarked Kamal Hira of Hong Kong-based SM Gems Ltd. The company is seeing increased demand for Paraiba tourmaline, Santa Maria aquamarine, alexandrite and most recently, Mexican fire opal. “These gems are moving fast. We expect Japan and the US to fuel growth in the coloured gemstone sector in 2023. However, China, which is a traditionally strong market for gemstones, will continue to face challenges,” said Hira. Apart from Japan and the US, Singapore and the Philippines are likely to bolster the gemstone trade, especially for Paraiba tourmaline. Prices are exceptionally high owing to high demand and tighter supply. “Good colours are harder to come by. Out of 100 pieces, you only get 10 with top colours. There is just not enough supply to meet the demand. With finer-quality stones however, the value is only expected to go up, so we have upbeat expectations,” added Hira. Ruby and emerald prospects According to Banks, there is also huge potential for coloured gemstones in China moving forward, given that consumers enjoy both colour and the associated meanings of coloured gems. The opportunity is likewise ripe to meet the Chinese market’s growing appetite for responsibly mined gems and sustainable business practices. Citing data from Guild Gem Laboratories, Banks said at least 60 per cent of emeralds coming into China are from Zambia while Mozambique accounts for at least 60 per cent to 70 per cent of China’s total ruby intake. Apart from China, the Indian market is poised to stay resilient, thanks to strong demand across quality ranges. The US and European markets, meanwhile, are also showing signs of promise, with gradual growth expected. “The past decade has seen a robust upward pricing trend for coloured gemstones, with Greater China emerging as an increasingly important market for Gemfields, becoming integral to our company’s growth strategy,” continued Banks. Sapphires Meanwhile, the sapphire business is also benefiting from solid market demand and strong prices, revealed Armil Sammoon, chairman of Sapphire Capital Group and Sapphire Cutters Ltd of Sri Lanka. “We have been seeing an upward trend, especially during the international gem shows, with customers who were unable to purchase throughout the pandemic having to restock their inventories. Some had very specific requirements,” remarked Sammoon. He said 2-carat to 5-carat sapphires in all colours and shades moved the fastest, and with steady demand, prices have increased 20 per cent to 30 per cent depending on the quality of the gem. Emerald 祖母绿
焦点 GEMSWORLD | 13 | 2023 The opal business meanwhile is also poised to pick up once pandemic-restrictions are lifted in major business destinations. Jessica Chan, operations manager at Opals Mine Factory Ltd, said prices of loose opals have risen by around 20 per cent to 30 per cent, but orders are still coming in, demonstrating the attractiveness of this unique gem. While the company focused mainly on finished gold and silver jewellery in 2022, which were popular among Hong Kong buyers, Opals Mine Factory is gearing up for a more dynamic 2023. “Our main market is the US, and we are excited to liaise with our clients once again at international exhibitions in 2023. We expect our loose opal products to move fast as we already have a lot of requests from buyers,” she noted. Chan added that opals as special gems are challenging to sell online since buyers need to examine them in person to appreciate their beauty. The company’s main product is white opal from Australia. Jeremy Wong of Aldoria Ltd, which specialises in natural Australian opals and Sleeping Beauty turquoise, also observed steady demand for opals in the market amid limited supply and other uncertainties, with US and European consumers asking for top-quality opals of all kinds. There is also rising awareness of and appreciation for opal doublets, noted Wong. He explained, “Doublets are rising in popularity as buyers increasingly opt for more affordable alternatives. Doublets are two natural opals pieced together and they can be similarly stunning.” Solid opals are 80 per cent more expensive than doublets. Gary Ng, manager at Opal Mine Ltd, meanwhile shared that black and boulder opals are among the most favoured in the market today. Strong demand pushed prices of black opals up by 20 to 30 per cent, with China and the US among the top customers. “Chinese buyers are partial to more valuable opals as opposed to US consumers who gravitate towards lower-quality opals,” noted Ng Technological advancements Transparency and fair practices will continue to be market-moving trends in the coloured gemstone trade. Raphael Gübelin, president of the House of Gübelin, said “transparently traded gems and jewellery” are likely to shape the business in 2023. To make traceable gems more accessible, sustainability start-ups Provenance Proof and Everledger introduced the first blockchain-supported online marketplace that allows buyers and sellers to directly connect, and trade ethically sourced gemstones. Such a platform has become more important with the market’s rising demand for sustainability and transparency in the gemstone trade, according to Provenance Proof – an initiative by the Gübelin Gem Lab, which subsequently spun off as an independent company. Buyers will keep sourcing for coloured gemstones amid a challenging scenario. They will be a bit cautious when making purchasing decisions, but higher-value stones, which are seen as investments, will continue to attract attention moving forward. – Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association Rubies 红宝石
FOCUS GEMSWORLD | 14 | 2023 彩宝市场需求炽热，并受到主要经济体稳步复苏的 支持，因此纵使全球面临各种挑战，2023年的行 业表现将有所提振，展现其韧性和稳定性。 业内人士表示，红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿将大力推动业 务增长，但同样耀眼迷人的优质宝石，如帕拉依巴碧玺、尖 晶石和海蓝宝石等，也有助满足强劲的需求。 彩通色彩研究所将鲜艳明亮的“非凡洋红”( V i v a Magenta)命名为2023年代表色，预计会使红色系宝石获得 更多关注。“非凡洋红”洋溢骄人活力，很有可能成为珠宝 设计的灵感泉源，令红宝石、金红石、红色尖晶石和石榴石 的美态更受重视。其他红色系宝石还包括菱锰矿和红碧玉。 在大量需求的推动下，彩色宝石的价格也呈现上升趋 势，稀有宝石的升幅尤其明显，但买家并未因此而却步。事 实上，拥有纯美色调和其他卓越优点的宝石，均被视为蕴藏 珍贵价值的瑰宝，因此将继续受到追捧。 充满机遇的一年 国际有色宝石协会主席Clement Sabbagh表示，2023年 势将成为彩宝行业成绩斐然的一年。美国、欧洲和亚洲等主 要市场对红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿的需求均与日俱增。 价格也成为增长的指标。Sabbagh表示，在过去两年内， 顶尖宝石的价格一直出现两位数的高涨幅。展望未来，彩宝 价格将继续上扬，尤其是质量超群的类别。 Sabbagh分享道：“我们对前景抱持乐观态度。蓝宝石、 红宝石和祖母绿这三大宝石种类，将引领行业逐步复苏。宏 观经济的不确定性，以及对2023年经济衰退的担忧情绪，尽 管令市场变得更加审慎，但我们对宝石行业的前景仍然充 满希 除望 了。”三大宝石以外，其他在 2022年已经大受欢迎的宝 石，将会在2023年维持热度，其中包括尖晶石、沙弗莱石、 不同深浅的红蓝绿色碧玺、帕拉伊巴碧玺，还有海蓝宝石。 然而，如今某些宝石的采购难度增加，可能会导致价格进一 步攀升。 Sabbagh称，一些矿场在疫情后难以恢复全面生产，尤 以小规模的手工矿场为甚，不像大型矿区可以凭借现代化 机械设备和丰厚的资源确保稳定生产。 “当采矿工作停止了一段时间，要恢复运营往往事倍功 半——矿工需要进行挖土、抽水和其他工序，才能使矿场回 复以前的状态。”他说。“此外，个别宝石种类的供应也不时 出现短缺，这个现象很常见，因为较小型的矿场不会年终无 休地生产宝石。” 宝石中的皇室贵族 尽管面对各种挑战，Gemfields产品与销售部执行总监 Adrian Banks认为祖母绿和红宝石在2022年仍然表现出色， 尤其在中国市场成绩卓著。Banks指出：“我们见证了客户需 求和价格呈现迈步跃进的趋势，令彩宝行业出现了一个令 人振奋的周期。特别值得一提的是在2022年第二季度，市场 对不同品质的祖母绿和红宝石都呈现殷切的需求。” 该季度的Gemfields商业级和顶级祖母绿，还有混合品 质红宝石拍卖会，成交表现均创下历史新高。2022年11月的 祖母绿拍卖会收入达3,080万美元，其中卡夫布祖母绿原石 Raphael explained that the online marketplace simplifies facilitated access to and sale of transparently traded gemstones, benefitting gem traders, jewellers and customers. Provenance Proof is not involved in the sales process and does not profit from any proceeds, he added. The online marketplace is the latest feature of Provenance Proof Blockchain, the first comprehensive and fully functional blockchain dedicated to the gem and jewellery sector. Built and operated with Everledger, it provides a digital, decentralised ledger based on blockchain technology that traces gemstones from mine to end-consumer. To date, around four million gem and jewellery items have been uploaded to the blockchain and over 500 professional users have joined, including more than 120 jewellers and manufacturers. Promising developments Education will also play a critical role in the coloured gemstone sector. Raphael said knowledge of and passion for gemstones will further lift market demand. He added, “The appetite for gem education will continue to grow. People want to know more about gems. In the Gübelin Academy, science meets stories, and we offer a unique introduction into the fascinating world of gems to learn about the emotional, historical and gemmological basics of emerald, ruby and sapphire.” Another testament to the strength of the sector is the return of in-person events where industry stakeholders can come together to assess the state of the trade, share market intelligence and formulate business strategies moving forward, noted Sabbagh. ICA is holding its biennial congress in Dubai in February 2023, which the industry views as a decisive post-pandemic gathering for the global gemstone industry. “Dubai is an emerging hub for coloured gemstones. It will be an important moment for the industry,” remarked Sabbagh. Sapphires 蓝宝石
焦点 GEMSWORLD | 15 | 2023 晶簇(Kafubu Cluster)是Gemfields有史以来最昂贵的单一祖 母绿成交拍品，将该公司卡棋穆祖母绿矿的2022年销售额 推升至破纪录的1.494亿美元。 该矿区在2022年6月举行的红宝石拍卖会，以9,560万 美元创下了所有Gemfields拍卖会的收入纪录，至于最近在 11月21日至12月8日举行的拍卖会，收入则达到6,680万美 元，将Gemfields蒙特普埃兹红宝石矿业有限公司(MRM)的 2022年拍卖收入推升至1.667亿美元。 总体而言，Gemfields在2022年的红宝石和祖母绿拍卖 会坐拥3.16亿美元收益，比2021年增加了32%，并打破历来 纪录。 红宝石和祖母绿的前景 Banks表示，中国消费者钟情于彩宝的迷人色调和不同 宝石品种的象征意义，因此该市场的发展潜力相当庞大。 此外，彩色宝石产品相信也能把握充分机遇，以满足中 国市场对责任开采宝石和可持续发展的需求增长。 Banks引用Guild宝石实验室的数据，指出中国市场上至 少60%的祖母绿来自赞比亚，至于红宝石方面，莫桑比克的 出品则占中国总进口量的至少60%至70%。 除了中国以外，印度也有望保持韧性，原因是市场对不 同质量的宝石均有强劲需求。欧美市场的前景亦无可限量， 预计将会逐步增长。Banks继续补充：“过去十年，彩宝价格 升势凌厉。大中华地区现正成为Gemfields日益重要的市场， 也在本公司的发展策略中占据不可或缺的地位。” 蓝宝石及彩色刚玉行业状况 与此同时，斯里兰卡Sapphire Capital Group及Sapphire Cutters Ltd的董事长Armil Sammoon透露，蓝宝石也受惠于 稳健的市场需求和强劲价格。 Sammoon表示：“我们一直注意到行情有上升的趋势， 尤其是在国际宝石展上。过往在疫情期间无法采购的客户， 都开始补充库存。有些客户还对产品有一些非常具体的 要求 他。”指出，各种色调的2克拉至5克拉蓝宝石销情最理想， 而且由于需求持续，价格也上涨了20%至30%，视乎个别宝 石品 买质 家而 也定 更。 乐于购入蓝宝石以外的彩色刚玉。中国消费者 过去偏爱皇家蓝和矢车菊蓝宝石，但现在已不时搜罗更柔 和的色彩，如粉红色或蜜桃色。欧洲买家也在寻找非传统的 刚玉色调。 2022年的行业增长动力以美国为首，其次是欧洲，至于 中国市场也贡献不少。在强劲的市场需求带动下，Sammoon 对2023年的蓝宝石及彩色刚玉前景保持乐观。 他补充道：“买家见识日渐广博，并且不断搜罗独特的宝 石。虽然受到持续的经济障碍打击，但我们仍然预计，这股 发展势头将持续到2023年底。蓝宝石是业内备受推崇的永 恒之选。” 市场概况 彩色宝石业在2022年明显重拾势头，当中红宝石、蓝 宝石和祖母绿市场增长强劲，为行业的未来发展奠下了基 础。泰国祖母绿专家Ansabro Gem Co Ltd的董事A. Wahid Ansari表示，1至5克拉的顶级祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石销情 最佳 他。 引用市场趋势数据，指出红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿的 每克拉价格为200美元至5,000美元，视乎宝石品质而定。 Ansari指出，中国和欧美是Ansabro公司的主要市场，但 亚洲地区也表现理想。他补充说：“缅甸和越南的市道正在 改善。我们对未来前景持乐观态度，但中国市场重新开放是 非常重要的一环。如果在2023年初还未实现的话，就有可能 对全球贸易产生巨大的影响。” Coloured gemstones 彩色宝石 Emeralds from Gemfields Gemfields的祖母绿产品
FOCUS GEMSWORLD | 16 | 2023 澳之宝有限公司的经理Gary Ng表示，黑澳宝和砾石澳 宝是买家最钟情的种类。在庞大需求的驱动下，黑澳宝的价 格上升了20%至30%，中美两国是最大的客户。他指出：“中 国买家喜爱价值高的澳宝，而美国消费者则经常物色质量 较低的澳宝。” 技术发展趋势 高透明度和公平的业务实践，将继续成为业内市场趋 势。古柏林集团总裁Raphael Gübelin表示，“具透明度的宝 石和珠宝交易”相信会成为2023年的行业主流。 为了让市场更容易获得可溯源的宝石，可持续发展初 创企业Provenance Proof和Everledger推出了第一个由区块 链支援的在线平台，让买卖双方直接联系及交易道德采购 宝石 可。 持续发展初创企业Provenance Proof和Everledger联 合推出首个采用区块链技术的线上交易平台Provenance Proof Marketplace，让买家和卖家建立联系，针对合乎道德 标准的可溯源宝石进行交易。 全新的交易平台为区块链使用者提供直接交流的机会， 更加容易和方便地采购可溯源宝石。 据Provenance Proof所称，市场对宝石业的可持续性 和透明度需求渐殷，因此这个平台的重要性不言而喻—— Provenance Proof是古柏林宝石鉴定所的独立子公司，源于 一项名为“原产地证明”的计划。 古柏林主席Raphael Gübelin表示，该线上平台让买卖来 源透明度高的宝石变得更简化和便利，令宝石商、珠宝商和 顾客从中受惠。他补充说，Provenance Proof不会参与任何 销售过程，也不从任何买卖收益中获利。 这个在线交易平台是Provenance Proof区块链的最新功 能，亦是珠宝行业内第一个全面且功能齐全的区块链。该平 台与Everledger共同构建和营运，提供以区块链技术为基础 的数字化及去中心化分类账，可追溯宝石从矿区至终端消 费者 迄的 今整 为个 止过 ，程已 。有约400万件宝石和珠宝上传至区块链， 并有超过500名专业用户参与，其中包括120多家珠宝商和 制造商。 灿烂前景 教育对于彩宝行业同样意义重大。Raphael表示，人们若 对宝石加深了解和充满热忱，将能进一步提升市场需求。他 补充说：“宝石教育的需求将继续增长。人们希望对宝石多 加认识，而古柏林宝石学院就是科学与故事相遇的地方。我 们以独特的方式介绍迷人的宝石世界，让彩宝爱好者建立 对祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石在情感、历史和宝石学上的基础 知识。” Sabbagh也指出，实体活动的回归是行业实力的另一个 铁证，让持份者聚首一堂，评估行业状况、分享市场情报及 制定未来的商业策略。国际有色宝石协会将于2023年2月在 迪拜举行两年一度的大会，业界认为这是全球宝石行业在 疫情后的关键盛会。 Sabbagh道：“迪拜是新兴的彩色宝石枢纽。这次大会将 成为彩宝行业的重要时刻。” 香港商石美有限公司的负责人Kamal Hira表示，消费者 对彩色宝石的渴求不断，具有超凡色彩的品种尤甚。他指 出，市场对帕拉依巴碧玺、圣玛利亚海蓝宝石、亚力山大石 和墨西哥火澳宝的需求相当强劲。 Hira称：“到了2023年，我们预计日本和美国市场将推动 业务增长。然而，中国这个传统上的庞大宝石市场，将继续 面对 与挑 此战 同。”时，新加坡和菲律宾的贸易额也有机会提升，特 别是帕拉伊巴碧玺业务方面。 需求旺盛加上供应紧张，令宝石价格居高不下。Hira补 充道：“颜色质量好的宝石较难找到。在100颗宝石之中，只 有10颗的颜色达到顶尖水平，根本没有足够的供应量来满 足需求。然而，优质宝石的价值有增无减，因此我们抱持积 极期 同望 时。”，一旦主要市场取消疫情限制，澳宝业务也可能会 有所回升。恒辉宝石厂有限公司的运营经理Jessica Chan表 示，虽然澳宝裸石的价格上涨了20%至30%，但订单仍然源 源不绝，证明了这种宝石魅力不凡。 该公司在2022年专注于成品金银首饰，并以香港地区买 家为主要客源，但他们也正在密锣紧鼓，为2023年大展宏图 做好“ 准我 备们 。以美国为主要市场，因此急不及待在 2023年的 国际展会上与客户重新建立联系。我们已经收到了很多买 家对澳宝裸石的查询，预计销售成绩会相当理想。”她指出。 她亦补充说，在线销售澳宝是一项挑战，因为买家必须亲眼 鉴定和欣赏其美态。澳大利亚白澳宝是该公司的主要产品。 澳多利有限公司专门从事天然澳大利亚澳宝和睡美人 矿区绿松石业务。据负责人Jeremy Wong观察所得，在供应 有限和其他不确定因素的情况下，市场对澳宝的需求持续 稳定，当中欧美消费者对各种优质澳宝兴趣甚殷。 他指出，人们对双夹层澳宝的认识和欣赏程度不断提 升。他解释说：“双夹层澳宝由于价钱更实惠，因此越来越受 欢迎。它由两块天然澳宝拼合而成，效果同样令人赞叹。”澳 宝原石的价格比双夹层澳宝贵80%。 Ruby from Gemfields Gemfields的红宝石产品
GEMSWORLD | 18 | 2023 FOCUS | Bernardette Sto. Domingo 杜明高 | A refreshing breed of coloured gemstones is turning heads in the international jewellery trade. From pristine pink zoisites to fiery yellow-orange sphalerites, discerning buyers are increasingly diversifying their coloured gem options. 新款彩色宝石正于国际珠宝市场上涌现。买家放眼更多不同种类的 彩色宝石，迎来了清新的粉红色黝帘石，以至橙黄如火的闪锌矿等新贵。 Emerging coloured gem favourites 彩色宝石新宠儿 29.02-carat cushion-cut sphalerite from SMGems Ltd SMGems Ltd的29.02克拉 枕形切割闪锌矿 8.54-carat oval rhodonite from SMGems Ltd SMGems Ltd的 8.54克拉椭圆形 蔷薇辉石 Pink zoisite fromNoor Gems Japan Co Ltd Noor Gems Japan Co Ltd的粉红色黝帘石
GEMSWORLD | 19 | 2023 焦点 The market is constantly looking for something new and different, especially now amid uncertainties and challenges. And that is what we want to offer – alternatives and diverse choices. - Rehman Ansari, CEO of Emergreen Exports With a multitude of coloured gemstones available in the market today, consumers have at their disposal much broader choices, including nonconventional gems that are gradually catching up with their more popular counterparts in terms of demand and consumer interest. Apart from the winning trio of rubies, sapphires and emeralds, a great deal of coloured gems has since risen in status in the trade. Among the most favoured and commercially successful of these are tanzanite, tourmaline, spinel, peridot, opal, aquamarine, amethyst and garnet, to name a few. Their soaring prominence is largely attributed to mainstream use by leading jewellery maisons: A necklace adorned with an exceptional 131.21-carat spinel centre gem by Bulgari; an eclectic Brazilian aquamarine collection that includes rings, necklaces and earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels; and a variety of Boucheron jewellery pieces with tanzanite as centre stones, among others. With buyers’ changing preferences – influenced primarily by trade developments, increased awareness and education, and evolving social conventions – a number of lesser-known, non-traditional gemstones are gaining steam in the industry of late, particularly in mature gemstone and jewellery markets such as the US and Japan. Glowing alternatives Buyers can choose from an expansive range of coloured gemstones at Emergreen Exports, led by perennial favourites sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Lesser-known gemstones however are steadily rising in popularity, especially among collectors, said CEO Rehman Ansari. This includes amblygonite, an unusual gem that comes in a variety of colours, from mint greens to light pinks and yellows, and subtle blues. Mined from Brazil, Rehman’s selection of amblygonite stones exhibits hazy blue hues reminiscent of the coveted aquamarine colour. These stones sell for US$100 per carat and have a hardness of 5.5 to 6 on the Mohs scale. Demand mainly comes from Japan, South Korea and China. “Amblygonites are not well-known. They do not come in big quantities either, making good-quality ones harder to source,” explained Rehman. “These gems are best suited for rings, earrings and pendants.” Emergreen Exports also offers petalite, a rare colourless stone from South Africa that has become a preferred choice among collectors. It sells for US$40 per carat. Another white gemstone gaining favour in the trade is goshenite, a white beryl that the company sources from the US. Also in its inventory are danburite from Mexico – a durable stone with a hardness of 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale; and grandidierite – a rare, gem-quality mineral from Madagascar that sells for US$40 a carat, to name a few. “The market is constantly looking for something new and different, especially now amid uncertainties and challenges. And that is what we want to offer – alternatives and diverse choices,” noted Rehman. Blue kyanite in the rough 蓝晶原石
GEMSWORLD | 20 | 2023 FOCUS iridescent colours of the sunset. According to KK Kwan of SM Gems Ltd, sphalerites are ideal for pendants. Sphalerites’ dispersion level is three times higher than that of a diamond – 0.156 compared to 0.044, respectively. The higher a stone’s dispersion value, the more colourful flashes it can display. High-dispersion gems have exceptional fire, referring to flashes of colour when the stone is moved under a source of light. This type of gem is especially desired by collectors, explained Kwan. Rhodonite from Brazil – a red or pinkish gemstone – is also attracting buyers nowadays. The gem, which could fetch around US$300 per carat depending on the quality, is best used for pendants. Rhodonites are typically fashioned into cabochons, beads, small sculptures, tumbled stones and other lapidary projects. Gem-quality facetted rhodonite has a deep, mesmerising colour and is extremely rare. It is also one of the most difficult gemstones to cut. Kwan revealed that both sphalerite and rhodonite have a strong following in the US and Japan. Mysterious gems Hong Kong-based Fancy Gem House meanwhile offers a treasure trove of coloured gemstones and among these are promising gems that are gradually gaining traction globally. According to Abdul Azeez Jaburulla, president of Fancy Gem House, the market is increasingly on the lookout for fresh coloured gemstone alternatives. Among these is chrome diopside from India, a vivid green gem that is rich in chromium – the same mineral that gives emeralds its opulent green hue. According to the American Gem Trade Association, chrome diopside’s colours range from light to bright green and almost black. The bigger the gem, the darker the colour gets. Clarity-wise, the gem comes in transparent and opaque variants. Chrome diopside hails almost exclusively from Inagli in eastern Siberia although deposits have recently been discovered in Pakistan. Jaburulla said the stone, which is well-liked in India and China, has a hardness level of 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale, making it most suitable for pendants and rings. Kyanite is likewise garnering attention in the global trade. It comes in multiple colours but those bearing an intense blue hue are considered the most appealing. “Kyanite from Nepal is popular as a sapphire alternative, thanks to its vivid blue hue that is comparable to sapphires, depending on the quality and the cut,” shared Jaburulla. It comes in both facetted and cabochon stones. According to gemsociety.org, facetted kyanite appeals mostly to collectors of non-conventional gems or those who fancy artistic gem cuts. Kunzite from Brazil and Afghanistan, meanwhile, is highly desired for its ultra-feminine colour range – from pastel pink to vivid purple. Jaburulla revealed that stones originating from Afghanistan tend to be in a deeper colour. Kunzite is popular among Chinese and Japanese customers, he added. Beauty in rarity An unusual pink gemstone – stunning in its subtle rosy hue and patent singularity – is at the centre of Noor Gems Japan Co Ltd’s coloured gemstone collection. Known in the trade as pink zoisite, it is in fact a pink tanzanite, according to the company’s Temur Ansari. Natural and unheated variants in special cuts that accentuate their exceptional colour and lustre command the most attention, noted Temur. A top-quality stone could sell for US$3,000 per carat. The highly admired tanzanite in vivid violet-blue colours is actually the blue variety of the mineral zoisite. Thanks to Tiffany & Co’s relentless efforts to feature the stone in its iconic collections, the blue tanzanite as we know today has amassed a huge following over the years. The jeweller coined the name tanzanite – based on the origin of the stone in Tanzania, East Africa. The rich blue hue of tanzanite can be achieved by heating natural zoisite, which comes in an array of colours including green, yellow, orange and, in very rare instances, pink. According to ASJ Gems, pink is the rarest of all zoisite colours and perhaps the most sought after by collectors. Another unique gemstone offered by Noor Gems is hemimorphite from Brazil. The gems display an electric blue hue almost akin to a Paraiba tourmaline. The stone, which ranks 3.5 on the Mohs scale, is quite soft and is most suited for pendants or earrings. Smaller gems are best for rings, Temur added. The gems are especially favoured by Japanese buyers. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) earlier tested a 5.61-carat semi-transparent blue cabochon in its New York laboratory for a Paraiba tourmaline origin report. The gem possesses the same captivating blue colour and other internal features. Using Raman spectroscopy, GIA confirmed the stone’s identity as hemimorphite – a zinc silicate, whose purest form is white or colourless. Impurities however produce different colours: Copper for a bluish and greenish tint, ferrous iron for green, and ferric iron for brown. Fiery possibilities Two especially resplendent stones meanwhile are available at SM Gems Ltd – sphalerite and rhodonite. Sphalerite, an orangey-yellow gemstone from Spain, is favoured for its extraordinary glow that brings to mind Petalite 透锂长石
GEMSWORLD | 21 | 2023 焦点 “锂磷铝石的知名度不高，产量也不多，因此更难采购 到优质的批次。”Rehman解释道。“这种宝石最适合制作戒 指、耳环和吊坠。” Emergreen Exports亦为客户提供透锂长石(petalite)，售 价为每克拉40美元。这是一种来自南非的稀有无色宝石，现 在已成为收藏家的挚爱之选。白色绿柱石(goshenite)是另一 种在业界备受青睐的白色宝石，从美国采购得来。 该公司的库存内还有更多宝石。墨西哥的赛黄晶 (danburite)是一种坚硬耐用的宝石，莫氏硬度为7至7.5。另 外，矽硼镁铝石(grandidierite)是一种马达加斯加的罕有宝 石级矿石，售价为每克拉40美元。 Rehman指出：“市场一直在寻找新颖独特的产品，在当 今充满不确定性和挑战的环境下尤甚。我们的宗旨是为客 户提供另类而多样化的选择。” 美在稀奇 Noor Gems Japan Co Ltd彩色宝石系列中的焦点是一 款稀有的粉红色宝石，以其细致的玫瑰色调和罕有性备受 瞩目。据该公司的Temur Ansari解释说，这颗在行业中被称 为粉红色黝帘石，实际就是粉红色的坦桑石。 Temur指出，天然且未经加热处理，并采用特殊切割以 突出其非凡的色彩和光泽的宝石，最受市场注目。一颗顶级 品质的宝石，售价可高达每克拉3,000美元。 好评如潮的鲜紫蓝色坦桑石其实是黝帘石的蓝 色品种。多年来，蒂芙尼公司不遗余力在招 牌系列中以这款宝石为主打，提升了蓝 坦桑石的受欢迎程度。因该石源自 东非的坦桑尼亚，蒂芙尼公司 将之命名为坦桑石。 现今市场上的彩色宝石五花八门，消费者的选择也 与日具增，他们对部分另类宝石的需求与兴趣， 已渐渐追上较受欢迎的宝石种类。 除了堪称三大彩宝的红宝石、蓝宝石和祖母绿，越来越 多彩色宝石在市场上冒起。其中最热门和最畅销的包括坦桑 石、碧玺、尖晶石、橄榄石、澳宝、海蓝宝、紫水晶和石榴石。 行内首屈一指的珠宝品牌采用了这些宝石，亦将它们 推上主流地位。例如宝格丽一条镶有131.21克拉巨型尖晶 石的项链；梵克雅宝包含戒指、项链和耳环的巴西海蓝宝系 列；还有宝诗龙一系列以坦桑石为主石的珠宝作品。 随着商贸发展、市场认知度与教育提升，加上社交传统 改变，买家的喜好不断演化，令几款较鲜为人知的另类宝石 人气高企，情况在美国和日本等成熟宝石和珠宝市场上尤 其明显。 闪亮迷人的另类之选 在Emergreen Exports，彩色宝石买家可以选购琳琅满目 的产品，其中蓝宝石、红宝石和祖母绿是广受欢迎的种类。 首席执行官Rehman Ansari指出，一些鲜为人知的宝石也越 来越受欢迎，尤其是在收藏家的圈子之中。 锂磷铝石(amblygonite)就是其中之一。这种非比寻常的 宝石可呈现不同的颜色，从薄荷绿、淡粉红色和黄色，以至 色泽细致的蓝色不等。Rehman悉心挑选的巴西锂磷铝石展 现朦胧的蓝色，宛如海蓝宝石般，令人爱 不释 此手 类。 宝石的售价为每克 拉100美元，莫氏硬度介 于5.5至6。日本、韩国 和中国是其主要 市场。 6 to 7 6-7級 Tanzanite/zoisite ranks to on the Mohs scale. It has fair to poor toughness and a property called cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck, according to the Gemological Institute of America. 坦桑石/黝帘石按莫氏矿物硬度标准属于第6至 7级。美国宝石学院(GIA)指出，其硬度介于普通至差之间，并且有称作 解理(Cleavage)的性质，受到敲击时有机会破裂。 Chrome diopside stone 铬透辉石 Hemimorphite mineral 异极矿 Polished grandidierite 已打磨矽硼镁铝石 21.39-carat round sphalerite from SMGems Ltd SMGems Ltd的21.39克拉的圆形闪锌矿
GEMSWORLD | 22 | 2023 FOCUS 来自巴西的红或粉红色蔷薇辉石，现时亦为不少买家的 心头好。这款宝石用来制作吊坠最适合不过。视乎质量，每 克拉蔷薇辉石的售价可达约300美元。蔷薇辉石通常会被琢 磨成腰圆石、珠子、小型彫塑、滚石或其他宝石工艺品。经刻 面切割的宝石级蔷薇辉石带有鲜艳而诱人的色彩，弥足珍 贵，亦为最难琢磨的宝石之一。 Kwan指出，美国和日本市场对闪锌矿和蔷薇辉青睐 有加。 神秘宝石 总部设于香港的Fancy Gem House提供的彩色宝石包 罗万有，部分潜力可观，在国际舞台上渐露光芒。公司总裁 Abdul Azeez Jaburulla表示，市场正积极物色教人耳目一新的 另类 富宝 的石 铬。 含量令来自印度的铬透辉石呈翡翠绿色，祖母绿 那艳丽的绿色亦是拜此矿物质所赐。据美国宝石协会的资 料所得，铬透辉石的颜色由浅绿到鲜绿不等，有些甚至近乎 黑色。宝石愈大，颜色则愈深。透明度方面，透明与不透明两 者皆有。铬透辉石几乎全部出产自东西伯利亚的Inagli地区， 不过最近于巴基斯坦亦发现矿床。 Jaburulla说明，铬透辉石在印度和中国广受欢迎，按莫 氏矿物硬度标准属于第5至第6级，故此适合用来制作吊坠 与戒 此指 外。 ，蓝晶亦在国际珠宝贸易舞台上崭露头角。蓝晶颜 色多样，但最讨人欢心的，则非湛蓝莫属。“采自尼泊尔的蓝 晶，视乎质量与切割方式，可呈现媲美蓝宝石的亮丽蓝色， 是蓝宝石的热门替代品。”蓝晶可以刻面切割和弧面切割两 种方式琢 根磨 据。 International Gem Society (IGS)网站的资料， 刻面切割的蓝晶主要吸引非主流宝石的藏家，又 或是钟情花式宝石切割的买家。 采自巴西和阿富汗的紫锂辉石则以极 女性化的色调闻名，由淡粉红至艳紫色 不等。Jaburulla说，阿富汗出产的紫锂 辉石通常较为深色。他补充：“紫锂辉 石很受中国和日本买家欢迎。它们 的体积通常较大，售价为每克拉 30美元。” Hemimorphite fromNoor Gems Japan Co Ltd Noor Gems Japan Co Ltd 的异极矿 Polished amblygonite from Emergreen Exports Emergreen Exports 的已打磨锂磷铝石 Rough pink zoisite 粉红色黝帘石原石 天然黝帘石加热后，便会呈现坦桑石那鲜艳的蓝色。天 然黝帘石有多种颜色，包括绿色、黄色、橙色，以及较罕见的 粉红色。ASJ Gems指出，众多颜色的黝帘石中，以粉红色最 为稀有，亦应该是最多收藏家争相入手的一款。 另一款Noor Gems提供的特色宝石是来自巴西的异极 矿腰圆石，色调几乎跟帕拉伊巴碧玺的电光蓝相若。这款宝 石较软，按莫氏矿物硬度标准属于第3.5级，最适宜用来制作 吊坠或耳环。Ansari又指，体积较小的宝石用来制作戒指最 为合适。异极矿尤其获得日本买家的爱戴。 早前，美国宝石学院于纽约实验室测试了一颗重5.61克 拉的半透明蓝色腰圆石，鉴定其是否属帕拉伊巴碧玺。这颗 宝石同样带迷人的蓝色，内部特质亦相若。该学院透过拉曼 光谱学，确认了这颗宝石为异极矿，是矽酸锌的一种。百份 百纯矽酸锌是白色或没有颜色的。然而，杂质会改变矽酸锌 的颜色：铜会令矽酸锌呈现蓝绿色，含亚铁则成绿色，而含 三价铁则成褐色。 迷人火彩 SM Gems Ltd呈献的闪锌矿和蔷薇辉石璀璨夺目，同样 惹人注目。闪锌矿是来自西班牙的橙黄色宝石，以其散发宛 如日落绚丽色彩的光芒而见称。 SM Gems Ltd的KK Kwan指出，闪锌矿最适宜用来制作 吊坠 闪。 锌矿的色散度为 0.156，较钻石的0.044高出三倍。 色散度愈高，愈能够散发闪耀的光芒。色散度高的宝石会 有迷人的火彩，而所谓火彩是指宝石在光线下射出的光 芒。Kwan解释说，这款宝石特别备 受收藏家的追捧。 Rare Russian demantoid fromNoor Gems Japan Co Ltd Noor Gems Japan Co Ltd的 稀有俄罗斯翠榴石
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