GEMSWORLD | 25 | 2019/20 市場情報 In a world grappling with macroeconomic and geopolitical upheavals, ingenuity continues to thrive in the fine jewellery sector. Complementing this creativity boom is an assortment of coloured gemstones in the market. Resplendent reds, pristine blues and enchanting greens still dominate classic collections while unconventional gems in hazy pinks and yellows, or subdued purples, are gaining traction in the trade. Colours play a twofold role in the jewellery sector – a conduit to express one’s individuality and a critical factor in formulating businesses’ design and branding strategies. This special feature delves on European jewellers’ steadfast pursuit of perfection through coloured gemstone jewellery pieces in timeless yet trend-defying designs. Legacy and expertise With more than a century of experience in the fine jewellery sector, Germany-based Victor Mayer has amassed a solid following from Europe, the US, Middle East and Asia. What sets the company apart from its counterparts is the distinctiveness of its designs, according to fourth-generation jeweller and managing partner at Victor Mayer, Marcus Oliver Mohr. The company was established in 1890. “We sell to retailers who are into exquisite, extraordinary jewellery pieces since we have one-of-a-kind products,” he noted. “We are known for enamel jewellery, which is our best seller, as well as coloured gemstone pieces.” All jewellery pieces are in 18-karat gold. At the centre of these are tourmalines, tanzanite and topaz stones, amethysts, and moonstones, to name a few. The designs, aptly described as cosmopolitan, demonstrate sophisticated patterns and details achieved through decadesold craftsmanship and modern technology. Mohr remarked that Victor Mayer’s success is largely anchored on its artistry as well as its ability to meet difficulties head on such as changes in consumer behaviour. “Jewellery has lost its appeal in industrialised countries but there’s potential in new markets such as Asia, particularly China. It’s imperative to have exceptional products and a more focused marketing initiative,” continued Mohr. The present situation also necessitates working closely with retail partners to identify emerging design trends and appropriate promotional tools. For instance, buyers are now on the lookout for dainty jewellery pieces that can be worn every day as opposed to ostentatious designs. There is also heightened consumer interest in bespoke items and stories behind the jewellery design and the make as part of an overall unique buying experience. Patrick Aeschbacher of Swiss jeweller Frieden likewise banks on the company’s jewellery making heritage to sustain growth. With a rich repository of special, top-quality gemstones, Frieden has built a wide customer base composed of retail brands mainly from Europe and the US. Victor Mayer’s peacock locket with diamonds and aquamarine, and light blue vitreous enamel in guilloché engraving | Victor Mayer的海蓝宝吊坠，以珐琅及扭索花 纹作点缀 Rings with moonstones and diamonds by Victor Mayer | Victor Mayer的 月光石镶钻指环
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