GEMSWORLD | 15 | 2019/20 精辟洞见 With modern business concepts, evolving buyer preferences and a more sophisticated clientele come vast opportunities for coloured gemstone traders. According to industry players, today’s buyers are increasingly investing in top- quality coloured gems and opting for colourful jewellery choices to better express their individuality. Highly coveted Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires or Colombian emeralds – which have enjoyed an illustrious reputation in the trade for centuries – are also commanding record-breaking prices at auctions. The sector has likewise endured macroeconomic uncertainties and registered significant growth over the last 10 years, according to Clement Sabbagh, president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). Data from New York-based Natural Resource Governance Institute said the global gemstone industry, diamonds included, was valued around US$17 billion to US$23 billion in 2015, with estimated sales of rough emeralds, rubies and sapphires at US$1.5 billion to US$2.5 billion. Jade alone accounted for US$3 billion to US$6 billion while other coloured gemstones recorded sales of US$250 million to US$750 million. “This is a result of a number of factors: Some new localities are producing good volumes of fine gems; emerging markets particularly China have become more educated about coloured gems and spurred a deluge of new consumers; and major fashion houses are using more colour in their designs,” revealed Sabbagh. Apart from the glowing triumvirate of rubies, sapphires and emeralds, other gems have likewise risen in significance and popularity among consumers. Colour revolution Spinels in various colours continue to gather steam in the coloured gemstone world, with the red, pink and blue variants moving the fastest during trade shows. Cobalt-blue spinels are especially favoured, according to Sabbagh. Green gems such as Russian and Namibian demantoid garnets, and Kenyan and Tanzanian tsavorites are high on the shopping lists of buyers, too. Mesmerising blues and purples likewise have a strong following, proven by solid sales of Paraiba tourmalines and deeply saturated purple garnets from eastern Africa and India. Another star in the coloured gemstone community are opals, specifically blacks and boulders from Australia. Numerous varieties of Mexican, Brazilian and Ethiopian opals in huge quantities are similarly gaining prominence in the market. Josh Saltzman, manager at US-based Nomad’s Lapidary Co Inc, said his clients are particularly drawn to red spinels. Aquamarines in vivid colours as well as lagoon tourmalines and tsavorites are likewise main movers. “These colours are extremely favoured now. Reds and greens are always popular in China. Lagoons, which are a pleasant mix of greens and blues, have a more universal appeal,” remarked Saltzman. At major jewellery trade shows however, the so-called big three still command the most attention from buyers. Mehul Patel, managing director of Krish Creations Co Ltd, said no-heat cornflower and royal blue sapphires of 1 to 5 carats were the top drawers at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. He also noted a shortage in supply of premium Kashmir sapphires, making these prized gems too expensive to buy. “People are mostly asking for Burmese and Sri Lankan sapphires now. Prices remain steep since these are high-quality materials,” continued Patel. Rubies were equally highly sought after especially by buyers from China, Hong Kong and other Southeast Asian markets, according to Phuket Khunaprapakorn, CEO of Gemburi Co Ltd.
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