A novel crop of coloured gemstones is taking centre stage in the high jewellery scene as luxury brands feature more competitive yet equally beautiful gems in their creations. Innovative cuts and shapes are likewise winning the market over.

While the Big Three – ruby, emerald and sapphire – continue to dominate high jewellery collections, they are increasingly sharing the spotlight with other coloured gemstones that are rising in prominence.

Rubellite is making its presence felt in recent releases of luxury brands. Cartier’s Nature Sauvage High Jewellery Collection trains the spotlight on the red gem in several key masterpieces. One of the collection’s highlights, the Chryseis Necklace, alludes to fluttering butterfly wings through onyx and diamond patterns and round chrysoprase beads anchored by a 63.76-carat rubellite.

In the Koaga Necklace, onyx and diamond stripes capture the zebra theme and is accentuated by a 6.25-carat pear-shaped rubellite. The gemstone also takes pride of place in the turtle-inspired Mochelys Brooch/Necklace that is enhanced by a 71.90-carat rubellite.

Bulgari likewise expands the focus on less conventional stones in its Aeterna High Jewellery Collection. Case in point is the Earth Song necklace that features round, oval and squared rubellites, amethysts, green tourmalines and diamonds in three strands of pink gold. 

New favourites

The Aeterna Collection also affirms emerging trends such as the growing popularity of opaque stones and cabochons in luxury jewellery. 

The Bulgari Lotus Cabochon Necklace relies on rubellite, turquoise, emerald and amethyst cabochons to recreate the shape of a lotus flower, while the brand’s Augustus Aeternus Emerald Monete Sautoir combines diamonds and 149 emerald beads weighing a total of 615.04 carats to hold up a rare bronze coin pendant.

Chrysoprase figures prominently in the Cartier Libre Tuttitutti Collection, which includes melon-cut variations as centre stones. Van Cleef & Arpels, for its part, introduced four new pieces to the blue agate range of its famed Alhambra Collection last year.

Malachite is present in jewellery collections of luxury brands such as Boucheron, Dior, Boghossian and Chopard, to name a few. Chrysoberyls, moonstones and star stones are options too at Oscar Heyman.

Appealing forms

Innovative cuts are drawing brand – and consumer – attention too.

According to Miranda Group CEO Cam Li, the company’s international jewellery brand clients are on the lookout for high-quality unique gems with a distinctive appeal. Sugarloaf cabochons and Miranda’s special Asscher-cut gemstones fulfil these requirements, she disclosed.

Fuli Gemstones regularly unveils new cuts for its peridots. The latest is the Beidou cut, inspired by the stars in the night sky and the Big Dipper. Reflecting the seven brightest stars of the Ursa Major constellation, the Beidou cut has seven sides and 85 facets. The latter consists of Table: 1; Crown: 28; Girdle: 7; and Pavilion: 49.