This article first appeared in the JNA July/August 2025 issue.

Call it a classic case of serendipity. British art enthusiast Hannah Martin originally wanted to major in sculpture at Central Saint Martins in London but ended up taking jewellery design after her very own “aha moment.”

“I stumbled upon jewellery by accident,” shared Martin. “I did not think it was something you could do as a career. I spent a week in a jewellery workshop as part of my foundation course and fell in love immediately. I never looked back.”

In 2006, she founded her namesake fine jewellery brand – giving her innate creativity a permanent home.

Bold new world

Martin’s designs are wonderful digressions from the traditional, sometimes mundane, diamond jewellery in gold. She adores gold though – depicting the yellow metal as magical and indescribable. And in her jewellery designs, gold’s captivating appeal takes a more authentic, almost visceral, persona.

Martin’s affinity for sculptural forms is most evident in her jewellery, juxtaposing soft and solid visual aspects that allude to a certain sensuality with an element of punk. What comes to mind is her New Rebel Bolt Bangle in 18-karat yellow and rose gold, with a carved malachite resting in the middle of the piece. The green gem also functions as an elegant screw closure.

The bangle sums up what the designer describes as her signature style – bold, disruptive and unabashed artistry.

“What makes my work stand out in the market is that I never think about the market,” shared Martin. “I tend to go against ‘trends’ and strive to create something that feels fresh and modern. I follow whatever it is that I find exciting at the time.”

Drawing from diverse creative influences ranging from photography to sculpture, architecture, film and music, her jewellery pieces radiate a collective energy that is both striking and empowering.

Subculture and subverting the status quo are also strong themes in Martin’s collections. She remarked, “I like to challenge what we see as luxury and what we understand as jewellery in a traditional sense. For example, why should jewellery be made specifically for men or women? I want my work to be for whoever it is that connects to it.”

Modern jeweller

Martin’s exceptional, norm-defying designs continue to turn heads in the broader luxury jewellery space. Over the years, she has created fine and high-jewellery collections for Louis Vuitton and Chaumet, and a fine jewellery collection for celebrated jewellery designer Francesca Amfitheatrof.

Most recently, she collaborated with Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman, who also owns a fashion label, to create A Vanitas, an assortment of 18-karat gold jewellery with a distinctive razor blade motif.

The collection draws inspiration from a popular Dutch art genre of the Baroque era that touches on the brevity of life and its fleeting beauty. The pieces, which include a razor wristband and razor ring, to name a few, are conversation starters about the beauty of seizing the moment, explained the designer.

This defiant creative philosophy has been present in all her creations from the get-go. Twenty years into her career, Martin said the company has never really adopted any brand-building strategy.

“I have always seen myself and my brand as a bit of an outsider, a rebel with a cause,” explained Martin. “I have never quite let go of the DIY punk mentality I started out with. Everything that comes out of the brand is totally authentic. That is our only strategy.”

The company is currently working on a new collection, scheduled for launch in September, in celebration of its 20th anniversary. Martin is also launching a book about her journey and her creations while some collaborative projects are in the works.

These are fascinating times, not just for her, but for the jewellery industry in general as individual designers are increasingly going against the grain and steering clear of the traditional route.

“There is now more opportunity for younger people, or more alternative people, to find something in the world of jewellery that resonates with them,” said Martin. “The industry is still quite traditional, but more and more people are trying to break the mould – including the clients. People are braver, and that is exciting.”