This article first appeared in the JNA March/April 2025 issue.

A new precious material is providing fresh possibilities for design, exclusivity and creativity in the fine jewellery world.

Sourced as a by-product of platinum mining, osmium is one of the world’s rarest precious metals, according to the Osmium-Institut Zur Inverkehrbringung Und Zertifizierung Von Osmium GmbH. Only 30 grams of osmium can be found in 10,000 tonnes of platinum ore.

In its crystallised form, it is the last of the eight precious metals to be made tradeable in the market. As of February 19, 2025, the price of osmium had reached US$1,665.39 per gram.

Pure raw osmium is crystallised in Switzerland and certified in Germany. Each crystalline osmium piece has a unique crystal structure and is scanned and documented with an identification code in the Osmium World Database, making it fully traceable.

Highly sought after as a store of wealth, crystalline osmium has been used in luxury watches and other high-end consumer goods such as headphones and even collectible pieces such as the world’s most valuable newly built violin.

The bluish-silver precious metal is now gaining more popularity in the jewellery trade as inlays and accents for upmarket creations.

Given the complex nature of crystalline osmium, it can only be purchased from the Osmium Institute, which offers it in various shapes and sizes. These range from rounds and squares to hearts and letters, among others.

Osmium Institute Vice President Scarlett Clauss said, “Our stock consists of standard shapes in varying sizes, heights and weights, going from 0.3mm to 1.4mm. We can also cut bespoke pieces such as logos, specific designs and client specifications. Crystalline osmium is often mistaken for diamond pavé but it is actually a single surface with unparalleled brilliance and shine.”

Creative licence

Hong Kong-based Tania Chan was the first high-end jewellery designer in Asia to use osmium in her jewellery pieces. In her Palace Collection, she combined osmium slices with pink sapphires, amethysts and pear-shaped diamonds in a one-of-a-kind, multifunctional high jewellery set consisting of a brooch/pendant/ring with a 2.75-carat diamond centre stone and a pair of transformable earrings in rose gold.

The main piece can be transformed into a trendy choker when styled with a blue lace strap, while the earrings can be further deconstructed into studs, ear climbers and drops.

“Osmium’s brilliance is at least 20 per cent more than that of a diamond. Its bluish-silver colour is extremely attractive and goes perfectly with diamonds and a variety of coloured gemstones, especially amethyst and fancy sapphires,” said Chan. “Crystalline osmium has a flat surface and comes in various thickness levels, but it seems three-dimensional and voluminous.”

Chan's line of osmium high jewellery includes ear hoops lined with original and yellow gold-plated osmium pieces that can be worn as a scarf ring, an amethyst ring embellished with osmium, and a Winter Sun pendant of osmium with diamonds. She intends to release further variations of these designs that showcase osmium’s intense sparkle.

“Diamonds can be seen sparkling from up to six or seven metres in the sunlight as they refract the light,” Clauss explained. “The sparkle of osmium can be seen from 30 metres away. Since it has a flat surface, it reflects light like a thousand little mirrors.”

Also adding to osmium’s appeal is its rarity. According to Clauss, while the Osmium Institute’s vision is to spread awareness of the material worldwide, there is never going to be more than 500kg of osmium in total.

She said, “Osmium will always be this extremely rare, beautiful precious gift from the earth that gives an extra dose of sparkle and luxury. It also has an ethically clean market as every single piece is documented and recorded, making it traceable from mine to finger. This captivating narrative makes osmium even more attractive to socially conscious consumers.”