This article first appeared in the JNA July/August 2024 issue.

Jewellery manufacturers, designers and brands are lifting the veil on versatile, flexible and convertible designs that display technical ingenuity at its finest.

Offering several style offerings in a single piece adds novelty, value and character to jewellery. Brooches, which are enjoying a moment, make a good case for the multifunctional trend, doubling as pendants and, in some cases, even rings. Mix-and-match options are taking on new forms, while novel materials are making their way into bejewelled creations as well.

The pun is likely intended in the Metamorphosis by De Beers high jewellery collection, released earlier this year. Its name alludes not only to its overarching theme of the change in the seasons but also the transformable nature of 20 of its diamond jewellery pieces.

Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers, said, “We have experimented with bold volumes, graphic motifs and hidden details. Our focus on transformability and versatility reflects the fact that De Beers is a young house. High jewellery is the epitome of art and craftsmanship, but it should also be wearable and fun.”

Multifaceted choices

Italian jeweller Picchiotti subscribes to the notion of versatility, too. In 2016, it debuted its Xpandable™ line, which features an invisible technology that allows rings and bracelets to expand up to two sizes. Today, the collection’s design selections number around 400.

“We like the idea of ‘jewellery that solves problems.’ With Xpandable™, we started a revolution that helps women around the world overcome the sizing and ring-fitting issues. We also empowered them with bracelets that do not have cumbersome clasps hence do not require assistance to be worn,” explained the brand’s marketing director Maria
Carola Picchiotti.

While options for stretchable and flexible jewellery have flourished in the market, she noted that Picchiotti’s original mechanism remains more complex and durable than most.

Last year, Picchiotti debuted its Reversible Xpandable™ Collection, consisting of bracelets, rings and necklaces that can be flipped over to reveal a different design. And it is doubling down on its creative ventures with its new Four-Face Bracelet that adds yet another innovative element to the Xpandable™ and Reversible technologies.

Launched this May, the bracelet consists of 13 parallelepipeds, each with four sides sporting different styles: A striped, yellow-gold face; a diamond-set face; a green mother-of-pearl face and a white mother-of-pearl face, making for endless combinations.

“Our Reversible jewellery pieces are versatile and wearable, allowing women to change the style according to their mood, outfit and circumstance. This is really the inspiration behind these jewellery lines. We aim to empower women to choose how they wear their jewellery at any given time,” said Maria Carola.

Gem ceramic is also figuring more in Picchiotti’s jewellery range because of its vast array of colours. “Furthermore, it is relatively simple to shape and can be easily inlaid with colours and precious stones. The look is crisp, sharp and fresh,” she added.

Stretching the limits

Over at Masi Gioielli, a proprietary technique using titanium springs powers its brand of adjustable and expandable jewellery. According to Co-Founder Andrea Masi, the company started developing the project in 2014, aiming to produce flexible rings and bracelets so women do not have to resize their jewellery when it no longer fits.

“Steel used to be the main metal for such concepts. But we ultimately decided on titanium for the stretchable springs since it is lighter, stronger, largely waterproof and more hypoallergenic,” said Andrea.

Masi Gioielli perfected the technique; covered it with patents in the main markets of Europe, Asia and the US; and presented it under its brand, Onesize Jewels. The jewellery was first introduced in 2020 but the full range was launched this year, garnering interest from China, India, the United Arab Emirates and Malaysia, among other markets.

Its 18-karat gold rings come in four sizes – small, medium, large and extra large, covering US size 4.5 to 10.5 – that can expand an additional three sizes, while the bracelets are available in small, medium and large.

The brand’s three collections are the Serpenti line; the Cloud Nine range of eternity rings, nugget or ingot bands and gem-set bracelets; and the enamel assortment of rings, bracelets and pendants.

Designs and gems can be further customised to client preferences and budgets. For instance, the jewellery can be partially or fully lined with diamonds or coloured gemstones. Customers can also provide the gems to be fitted in the pieces. Wholesale prices start from US$1,000 per ring and US$3,000 per bracelet.

“Retailers can get a starter package for the brand and offer several sizes with at least five rings and a couple of bracelets,” said Andrea. “They can also choose to include the pieces in their own collection or private label. We can create special styles for them and even laser inscribe their brand in the jewellery.”

Ceramic possibilities

Japanese jeweller Crossfor Co Ltd, which made headlines with its patented Dancing Stone mechanism where a single stone is suspended mid-air in a perennially moving state, also continues to break new ground.

Its Shimmering Stone technique, for one, produces greater movement and twinkle by hanging from a single hook, as opposed to the Dancing Stone’s two swing-like posts. This makes the stone continually swing up and down and left to right, making it ideal for delicate designs.

Now, Crossfor is heading into ceramic territory, combining the material with its popular jewellery products such as its tennis-bracelet chains that can fit 1.5mm or 2.7mm stones for myriad stylish combinations.

Its ceramic rings are available in black and white. The Gold Crown ceramic rings come with a pin to create pearl, coloured gemstone or diamond solitaires. The Gold Eternity ceramic ring is either partially or fully encircled by the company’s tennis-bracelet chain, while the Gold Ring with ceramic is coiled with gold. Also available are ceramic Floating Stone rings as well as ceramic posts for pearl earrings.

“Since gold prices are currently quite high, we decided to offer ceramic options for jewellers seeking affordable components for their products,” disclosed Crossfor Co Ltd Senior Sales Manager Gloria Au. “They can mix and match colours and incorporate elements such as our chain or stones or pins of various colours to produce an entire collection with just a few items.”

Prices for Crossfor’s ceramic jewellery products range from US$20 to US$100, with a minimum order quantity of 20 pieces per design and category.

Taking flight

Embroidery takes pride of place at niche jewellery brand La broderie, which was founded by Diana Wong, owner of Hong Kong-based Verde Jewellery.

To create La broderie’s enchanting butterfly and other nature-inspired brooches and pendants, frames in 18-karat gold are filled in with meticulously handwoven embroidery crafted by an embroidery master skilled in Chinese and French techniques. The vivid jewellery pieces are further embellished with diamonds and coloured gemstones. Sizes, designs, adornments and materials can all be tailored to client requirements.

According to Wong, the artist started learning Chinese embroidery techniques at the age of five and then studied French tradition at the school that produces embroidery for Chanel. Her work is a uniquely crafted blend of East and West that imbue La broderie’s creations with an additional air of elegance and sophistication.

“Chinese embroidery uses mostly silk thread, while French embroidery adds beads and texture. While there are plenty of butterfly-themed jewellery pieces in the market, ours are extremely dynamic and superbly crafted. They are often mistaken for paintings or calligraphy since they are surprisingly three-dimensional and very neatly done. The pattern appears distinctly on both sides of the embroidery,” said Wong.

She noted that a tremendous amount of time, effort and precision went into developing the manufacturing technique for La broderie jewellery.

For instance, a single butterfly brooch required several attempts to perfect the thickness of the body, the placement of the attachments and the structure of the frame to make the piece wearable and ensure it can hold the embroidery and the gems properly.

“Beyond creativity and innovation, the design or concept must be realistic and functional to be successful. Craftsmanship is of extreme importance. We listen closely to customer feedback on our pieces and make sure they are not only ingenious but also practical and comfortable,” declared Wong.