This article first appeared in the GEMSWORLD 2023.

Douglas Hucker has had a front-row seat to the evolution of the coloured gemstone trade over the years. The industry veteran steered the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) for 24 years before becoming CEO of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) in June 2022. In a talk with GemsWorld, he shares his assessment of the coloured gemstone market and his priorities at ICA.

How has the transition from AGTA to ICA been?

Douglas Hucker: The nearly 25 years I spent at the helm of AGTA were rewarding and truly defined my professional career. It is never a job if you really love the work. Being the CEO of AGTA allowed me to meet and interact with incredible people across the globe. My role at ICA is similar but with a much larger arena of members. Not often can one say they have held two dream jobs. The two organisations are very closely aligned: AGTA as an association of US and Canadian gemstone professionals, and ICA as an international group, perhaps more diverse in the mining and producing community. They both strive to achieve success for their members’ businesses and for the coloured gemstone industry now and in the future.

What are the main challenges and growth opportunities in the coloured gemstone sector?

Hucker: One of the major challenges is the change in the nature of the consumer. Young people today are not as inclined to introduce jewellery into their lives as did previous generations. We are not just competing with smart phones or other digital toys; we are competing for their attention. We must help future generations understand the inherent value, the inherent beauty and the inherent desirability of gems. There is also an entire generation of young people who, because of economic upheaval and the astronomical burden of education debt, have less disposable income to spend on jewellery.

On the other hand, coloured gemstones benefit from the younger generation’s predilection for finding ways to express their unique identity. Coloured gemstones provide an enormous palette from which they can draw inspiration. Coloured gemstones are infinitely varied. They are passionate; they are visceral. They provide a vehicle for personal expression. They have a significant range of cost and lend themselves extremely well to the stunning talent of jewellery designers of all levels.

How do you win younger generations over?

Hucker: We need to engage them and grow their excitement about gemstones – not just among our customers but within our own industry. Sons and daughters reaching an age where they are entering their professional careers are a vital resource we need to cultivate. We must show them that the coloured gemstone industry is wonderful and exciting, educate them on the joy coloured gemstones can bring to their lives, and show how coloured gemstones can help them express their individual selves or become their creative muses. Younger consumers are incredibly attached to technology, but this can quickly become obsolete. Coloured gemstones, however, are eternal. There will always be beautiful gemstones cut by exquisite lapidaries and mounted in creative and dynamic jewellery. In short, gemstones indeed are forever.

What factors are shaping the coloured gemstone trade?

Hucker: The introduction of digital technology and the sophisticated growth in scientific methods to address identification, treatments, origins and the like have had a significant impact on the gemstone trade. As digital communication and technologies expand, even in emerging countries, these technologies are being applied to the sourcing, manufacturing, and distribution of coloured gemstones. Our communication methods are also increasingly digital. Meanwhile, ICA’s cooperation with laboratories enables them to have clearer insight into the materials produced in particular areas and allows for the development of data that is essential in determining origin. Likewise growing in importance are environmental, social and governance (ESG) issues, which are producing the fundamental principles governing all industries and increasingly dictating how jewellery and coloured gemstones are brought to market.

What role can ICA play in ESG matters and the ethical sourcing of coloured gemstones?

Hucker: Consolidation in the mining and production arena has impacted the artisanal mining community and the independent jewellery manufacturer. ICA is particularly proud of its beneficiation efforts in the artisanal mining sector. As dealers, we benefit from the beautiful treasures that come from the earth but also understand that those benefits come with responsibility. ICA has established a foundation whose sole purpose is to improve the conditions in the communities where our gemstones are mined and cut. Our Gems Keep Giving programme was responsible for bringing a clean and consistent water supply to a community of 3,000 people in Kenya who had no source of clean water before. The efforts of Gems Keep Giving will be an ongoing focus of ICA’s efforts. For its part, our Ethical Member Accreditation initiative is designed to ensure that our supply chains are as transparent and sustainable as can be. ICA coordinates efforts with other organisations like the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the Responsible Jewellery Council to protect the integrity of the supply chain. Our Code of Ethics outlines clear guidelines regarding
these matters.

What are your priorities at ICA?

Hucker: The CEO of any organisation must ensure that the association can deliver opportunities and services that benefit the businesses of its members and the industry it serves. ICA does that primarily by positioning its members as the most expert and reliable sources of coloured gemstones in the industry and through promotion, education, engagement in industry associations and functions, and trade shows. Our members adhere to a strict code of ethics and professional behaviour. This gives our customers the confidence they need to make an informed and pleasing purchase. With the ICA Board of Directors, I will work to build our membership, expand our Ethical Member Accreditation programme, grow and improve our biennial congresses, and enhance our presence in industry trade shows. The 2023 ICA Congress takes place in Dubai from February 14 to 17.

How will you expand ICA’s membership?

Hucker: An association’s strength depends on the quantity and quality of its membership. ICA could dramatically expand its membership base if it did not have such strict requirements for membership and member performance. We currently have members from 47 countries and will certainly have more.

The opportunities for growth vary, depending upon the character of members. Many of them come from mining communities in countries that are emerging from the ravages of Covid and grappling with the lack of sufficient investment, changing climate conditions and a moribund economy. We strive to ensure that these communities grow sustainably and benefit equally from the resources they bring to the supply chain. We need to invest in communities’ health, labour conditions, education advancement and quality of life. Another segment of our membership is in the supply-chain trading channels, from dealers through to retail members. A global recession and supply chain issues plague our industry. The last few years have been challenging but the industry survived and, in some cases, thrived. The best opportunities for growth in this segment are in Europe, Asia and certainly the US.

What can we expect from ICA moving forward?

Hucker: Coloured gemstones have, for the past two decades, benefited from an increase in interest both from designers and manufacturers and certainly from consumers. As the appreciation and the desire to own coloured gemstone jewellery grows, so will the need for ethical professionals to supply those needs. Young people especially want to feel good about where their products come from and whether these are responsibly produced. This underscores the relevance of ICA as the global representation of coloured gemstone professionals. We can do a tremendous amount of work in producing countries to increase efficiency, improve livelihoods and grow in importance to the community.

ICA is also a source of professional growth for members of the coloured gemstone sector. We can provide our dealers and retail members with ongoing education about developments in the industry with new gemstone finds and emerging techniques for jewellery production.

As a truly international association, ICA is in the unique position to promote coloured gemstones and help address the needs of communities that are maturing in mining, manufacturing and marketing. Our strength is our international representation and the varied, comprehensive perspective it provides to address the issues of today.

Coloured gemstones are not only a source of incredible beauty but also something we can be proud to buy and own because they help improve lives in the communities of origin.