Rubies, sapphires and emeralds – renowned as royalties in the coloured gemstone universe – take pride of place in esteemed jewellers’ latest luxury collections.

Exemplifying strong demand for the so-called Big Three in the gem trade are a curated assortment of high jewellery pieces from some of the world’s most beloved maisons. 

Bulgari’s Polychroma High Jewellery Collection, for instance, features 250 new masterpieces, including five milestone high jewellery creations adorned with exceptional coloured gemstones. 

Rooted in the Greek words poly (multitude) and chroma (colours), this collection pays homage to the rich history of Rome and Bulgari’s masterful use of colour and craftsmanship. 

Among the hero pieces is the Cosmic Vault necklace embellished with a 123.35-carat Sri Lankan sugarloaf sapphire in a deep and intense royal blue tone. The necklace’s design is inspired by the astral beauty and architectural grandeur of Rome.

Bulgari explained, “The sugarloaf cut gives the gem incredible softness and sinuosity for a velvet-like texture, perfectly combining with the intricate yet flexible structure enabling comfortable wearability.”

Cartier, for its part, shone the spotlight on emeralds in its latest En Équilibre High Jewellery Collection. The Panthère Dentelée necklace transforms mesmerising Colombian emeralds into a cascade of faceted beads of different sizes and weights. 

“From its intense colours to the impression of fluidity and its supple drape, everything comes to life thanks to the threading technique, which requires respect for the design, the curves and the layering,” stated Cartier.

Meanwhile, a standout piece in Tiffany's Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder – the Starfish ring – showcased a stunning ruby of over 6 carats, further accented with 96 rose-cut diamonds and 119 round diamonds totalling over 4 carats. 

“The rubies that we acquired for the Starfish chapter possess this gemstone’s most sought-after qualities: A strongly saturated red colour with a splash of fluorescence that is further enhanced by their high clarity. The unenhanced nature of these gemstones, coupled with the perfectly matched red colour and cut, is extremely rare,” said Victoria Wirth Reynolds, chief gemmologist at Tiffany.