A jeweller’s journey from inspiration to design execution is as fascinating as the resulting masterpiece – exciting, at times chaotic and relational, but mostly incredibly fulfilling.

The passion for jewellery design is almost always rooted in childhood when early exposure to creative environments nurtures both artistic vision and analytical thinking.  These formative experiences are the foundations of greatness and mastery in jewellery design.

Take for instance renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida, owner and creative director of Marina B. Throughout his 29-year professional journey, Bedarida has raised the profiles of celebrated jewellers Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and John Hardy where he worked as lead designer.

In 2017, he made a giant leap in his career and acquired Marina B – a revolutionary jewellery brand founded in 1976 by Marina Bulgari of the legendary Bulgari dynasty. 

Trisola Cuffs by Guy Bedarida of Marina B
 

“There is no woman more important to the world of jewellery than Marina Bulgari. I have followed her since the 1980s,” shared Bedarida. “I had to buy Marina B. I wanted to restore it to its former glory when Marina owned it and help it retain its DNA.”

Bedarida worked as head designer and creative director at John Hardy from 1999 to 2015. Prior to that, the Italian-born French designer was the artistic force behind exceptional jewellery pieces at Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron at Place Vendôme.

His passion for the craft however can be traced back to his youth, fuelled by exposure to various artists like painters, writers and architects, whom he met during overseas trips. His father then worked as a cultural attaché and would travel from embassy to embassy.

He describes his design philosophy as “very sympatric, authentic and fluid.” As a designer, his process involves studying trends, but what ultimately influences his collections is creative instinct. For instance, he revealed that modern female consumers now place a premium on wearability and comfort, on top of attractiveness, when choosing a jewellery piece.

At Marina B, Bedarida envisions a company that democratises luxury through everyday jewellery collections while upholding its fundamental heritage and corporate character.

Highly personalised jewellery designs, meanwhile, are at the core of Hong Kong jeweller Austy Lee’s enigmatic fine jewellery creations. 

The Deep Blue Cirrus Ring by Austy Lee
 

Lee, founder and designer of Austy Lee Art Jewellery, has more than two decades of experience in the jewellery industry. He founded his own brand in 2017, armed with the skills he patiently honed over the years.

“I worked with five different companies before I started my own brand,” explained Lee. “My vision was to create something ‘very Austy’ – a style that is my own and imbued with my personality and artistry.”

To achieve this, Lee draws inspiration from religion, culture and his affinity for the arts to conceptualise his designs. Complex, edgy and multilayered are how one would describe Lee’s creations.

Each piece features his geometric prowess and inventive use of colours as well as different techniques like enamelling and inlaying, to name a few. Lee is also fond of repurposing antique items to create an entirely new piece of jewellery, with the aim of preserving its unique attributes while giving it a modern twist.

Bespoke nature-inspired brooch by Nisan Ong
 

Meanwhile, art and nature are central to the one-of-a-kind designs of Nisan Ong, founder and designer of Thailand-based Nisan Ong / Ong Jewelry Design Co Ltd.

An art fanatic and a devoted collector of paintings, sculptures and jewellery, he set out to make a difference in the world of jewellery design by offering unconventional motifs and colour combinations.

“My strategy was to stand out,” noted Ong. “My experience as an art connoisseur became a defining point in my career as this helped infuse uniqueness to my creations.”

A design must fulfil certain criteria for it to belong to the realm of “art jewellery,” according to Ong. These include having a strong concept; harmony in shape, colour and overall appeal; exceptional style and the use of a special technique. For instance, Ong is known for his clever use of gold and titanium in his nature-inspired pieces.

 

JGW & JNA: 42 Years, 42 Stories is an online series running throughout 2025 to celebrate the 42nd anniversary of Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong and JNA. A new story of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation will be released every week. Subscribe to free JNA News Alerts to be notified when the next story is out.