“I saw the angel in the marble, and I carved until I set him free.” This is how Michelangelo once described his approach to sculpture. Gem artists can relate. To these master cutters, the gem serves as a stepping stone to fantasy worlds, depicting untold wonders through boundless imagination captured by exceptional skill.

As famed German lapidarist Bernd Munsteiner put it, the driving passion of his artistic life was to “discover the aura of each gemstone crystal and make visible the internal life and natural beauty hiding within.”

Among Bernd’s many claims to fame is his invention of the fantasy cut, which consists of concave cuts made on the back of gemstones. The largest cut aquamarine, Bernd’s 35cm, 10,363-carat Dom Pedro carving on display at the Smithsonian’s National Gem Collection, was his greatest challenge – and arguably his greatest triumph. 

 

Dom Pedro, the 35cm 10,363-carat aquamarine carving by Bernd Munsteiner

 

In an interview with JNA before he passed away on June 6, 2024, Bernd shared, “The rough sat in my studio for three months while I obsessed about it, making hundreds of sketches and waiting for the knock of inspiration. It came when I turned the piece upside down in a gesture that connected it to the earth. It took one year to create the final piece.”

Revolutionary feats

Gem artists embark on their journey of creative exploration with a healthy dose of curiosity that fuels an intrepid spirit of adventure. 

Hans-Jürgen Henn of Henn GmbH is credited with bringing some of the most celebrated coloured gemstones to market – Paraiba tourmalines from Brazil, spessartites or mandarin garnets from Namibia and peridot from the Himalayas of Kashmir to name a few.

 

Hans-Jürgen Henn of Henn GmbH

 

The patriarch of the Henn family leads his sons in pushing the envelope on gemstone cuts. Hans-Jürgen’s son Axel manages the Henn atelier in Idar-Oberstein while his other son Ingo runs jewellery brand Henn of London, which sets the Henn gemstones into jewellery and objets d’art.

Victor Tuzlukov also loves a good challenge. He told JNA, “I am not the most experienced or most professional of gem cutters. The only difference is that I am not afraid to set impossible tasks for myself. Because of my vanity, I must solve them.”

 

Victor Tuzlukov

 

And he has. Apart from topping international competitions, Tuzlukov is in the Guinness Book of World Records for the 3,051-carat “Fragility of the Eternal” kunzite with 928 facets, which is cited as the largest cut spodumene (2020). He also holds the Guinness record for the most faceted scapolite (2021) and the most faceted quartz (2021). 

Attesting to his expertise, his name can be mentioned in gemmological reports issued by some international labs such as GIA and Lotus Gemology. 

To Tuzlukov, his next stone must always be more difficult than the last one to expand the limits of possibilities. The Eucharist amethyst that he presented to Pope Francis had 700 facets, then already a Herculean task for the gem artist. He has since outdone himself – three gemstones in his Easter Egg Collection inspired by Karl Fabergé have more than 2,500 facets each, with two of them boasting over 3,500. 

"Fragility of the Eternal," representing France in Victor Tuzlukov's World Heritage Collection

 

“Gem artists should not be afraid of the impossible. All limits are in our minds; nothing is impossible,” Tuzlukov said. “We should also pay attention to the tiniest of details. Our eye is a perfect optical instrument that sees much more than our mind can realise. Our works, imbued with our concept and passion, create an indelible impression, which often influences buyers’ purchasing decision. If they feel the perfection and harmony of your creation, they will want the piece.”

Tuzlukov’s latest masterpieces include the 12-stone World Heritage Collection, which he describes as the most complete and meaningful expression of his creativity. The collection took four years to create, with each stone representing the cultural identity of a country. For instance, Japan is represented by a pink kunzite that alludes to Sakura blooms. 

 

"Blood and Sand," a 150.82-carat citrine representing the Roman Empire in Victor Tuzlukov's World Heritage Collection

 

The passion for gems lives on in younger generations. Bernd’s grandson, Phillip, won a German gemstone and jewellery award in the young talent category for his Dragon Egg cut. Inspired by the dragon egg in the “Eragon” series, the cut reveals the gem’s interior through polished and unpolished facets.

 

Dragon Egg necklace with a 67.03-carat beryl cut by Phillip Munsteiner and set into a gold necklace by Jutta Munsteiner

 

 

JGW & JNA: 42 Years, 42 Stories is an online series running throughout 2025 to celebrate the 42nd anniversary of Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong and JNA. A new story of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation will be released every week. Subscribe to free JNA News Alerts to be notified when the next story is out.