Fresh gemstone varieties – offering more design possibilities at less prohibitive prices – are winning the market over as the world increasingly gravitates toward colour.

While ‘the Big Three’ gemstones, namely emerald, ruby and sapphire, remain frontrunners in high jewellery collections, a second trio – Paraiba tourmaline, spinel and aquamarine – is rising in prominence too.

Beyond that, gemstone companies point to a resurgence in demand for tourmaline, from rubellite and green tourmaline to indicolite and lagoon tourmaline. Also having a moment are garnet, zircon and tanzanite, among other gems.

Redefining luxury

Boghossian’s Lirya Collection expressly highlights meaningful alternatives to the luxury trio. Here, the spotlight shines on aquamarines, green tourmalines, rubellites and morganites, among others. 

Bulgari’s high jewellery collection for 2025, Polychroma, spreads the love too by featuring 56 different gemstone varieties. 

Sharing the limelight with the ‘Magnus Emerald’ necklace and its 241.06-carat centre stone is the world’s fourth-largest spinel, a 131.21-carat wonder from Tajikistan, highlighted in the 'Celestial Mosaic' necklace.

No points for guessing the star of the 'Tanzanite Falls' set; and the 'Chromatic Glory' necklace reinforces the point through its pear-shaped morganite, citrine quartz, green quartz, aquamarine and amethyst – each weighing over 30 carats.  

'Chromatic Glory' necklace with a pear-shaped amethyst, green quartz, morganite, aquamarine and citrine from Bulgari's Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Shades of youth

Younger consumers are likewise favouring colour, with their choices largely influenced by the character and look of the gemstone rather than its value, noted Pakornkiat Silpvisuth, sales purchase manager of Thailand-based Gem Place.

“The younger generation generally prefers simpler, subtler stones that go well with their outfit. They do not seek to be glamourous nor are they after intense sparkle. For this reason, they usually opt for more mellow colours and pastels over emeralds, rubies and sapphires,” he explained.

Given this cohort’s fondness for personalised offerings, they veer toward layouts with various colour combinations that they can mix and match further, Silpvisuth revealed. 

Affordability is also a strong draw. Silpvisuth said, “Gen Zs would rather spend on a bigger non-traditional coloured stone that appeals to them than a small emerald, ruby or sapphire."

Coloured gemstone earrings from the Lirya Collection of Boghossian

Scintillating future

Also fuelling optimism are emerging markets for gemstones, many largely untapped such as Singapore and the Middle East. As expected, the latter has a penchant for bigger coloured gems, embracing even those of lower quality. 

Even Hong Kong – traditionally a diamond jewellery market – is paying greater attention to coloured gemstones, observed Kim Chan, director of Akima Jewellery Ltd. Tourmaline is moving particularly well for the gemset jewellery specialist, which caters mainly to clients in the Middle East, the US and Southeast Asia.

Tourmaline necklace by Akima Jewellery Ltd

Raja Gems affirms the market’s fascination for gems. Yacoob Akram, director of the gemstone trading firm, cited tourmaline, spinel and aquamarine as perennial favourites.

According to him, lagoon shades are in demand for tourmaline, while colours like ‘Fanta’ do well for spessartite garnet. 

“The most important factor is colour,” said Akram.
 

JGW & JNA: 42 Years, 42 Stories is an online series running throughout 2025 to celebrate the 42nd anniversary of Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong and JNA. A new story of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation will be released every week. Subscribe to free JNA News Alerts to be notified when the next story is out.