Japanese craftsmanship took centre stage at Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF), which is renowned as the largest B2B jewellery exhibition in Japan.

The fair, held at the Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center from August 28 to 30, 2024, was organised by Informa Markets in partnership with the Japan Jewellery Association (JJA). 

Featuring 352 exhibitors from Japan and other regions and countries, the show’s 2024 edition saw an increase in overseas exhibitors and foreign buyers, particularly from Southeast Asia.

JJF 2024 welcomed 12,319 visitors, down by around 8 per cent compared to 2023. Some exhibitors said traffic was impacted by Typhoon Shanshan, which made landfall in Japan on August 29.

Other factors that affected business at the show was a depreciating Japanese yen, overall dip in domestic demand and a global economic downturn.

However, several exhibitors told JNA that they entertained buyers from China and Southeast Asia during the fair. A live-streaming programme arranged by the organiser also played a significant role in promoting and driving sales of Japanese-made jewellery.

“Given the current market situation, the fair moved at a slower pace, which is how the overall business in 2024 is doing. But we still met some serious buyers at the fair,” said Deepali Agarwal, founder of Japan-based coloured gemstone specialist EM Corp. “The show was satisfactory for us.” 

Japan-made 

Among the strongest draws at the fair ware Japan-made jewellery pieces, which captivated both international and domestic clients. 

Hyuga Hoshoku Co Ltd offered a new series of flexible, spring-like 18-karat gold rings, embellished with an array of coloured gemstones. This was  a favourite among overseas markets, particularly China and the Philippines.

“Demand for precious metal jewellery is growing,” said Junya Imamura, section manager of Hyuga Hoshoku. “The challenge lies in the high price of gold and the impact of the yen’s depreciation. We are now using platinum, which is priced lower than gold, instead of 18-karat white gold for some of our jewellery items to control costs.”

Hyuga Hoshoku manufactures a wide range of precious metal jewellery, including pearl, coloured gemstone and diamond pieces. 

Shimizu Jewelry Co Ltd, meanwhile, shone the spotlight on its new pearl jewellery collections that exhibit a three-dimensional design through the creative use of lines. The pieces are visually appealing from all angles when worn.

Another highlight was its animal-inspired collection, which matches the pearls’ shape and colour with a specific animal motif. 

“While our products may be priced slightly higher, we deliver uniqueness and top-notch quality,” said Mami Shimizu, sales manager of the company.

Founded in 1990, Shimizu Jewelry’s design team focuses on producing high-quality pearl jewellery in its own factory. Among its clients are male buyers from Japan and China, some of whom they welcomed at the show.

Award-winning jewellery designer Norihisa Tanaka, for his part, showcased his meticulously crafted designs at JJF. A standout piece was a pair of Ginkgo Tree rings, which won the JJA Jewelry Design Awards 2023.

Inspired by the ginkgo tree, the rings consist of leaves made from a combination of 18-karat gold and platinum. The leaves are decorated with golden and Tahitian pearls, tanzanite stones and diamonds. A series of simpler versions for daily wear was also available. It was Tanaka’s first time to participate in JJF. 

“My goal was to promote and introduce my jewellery designs to a broader range of people,” said Tanaka. “My pieces are all handmade and exceptional. I also customise designs. I expect demand for this type of jewellery to increase in the future as consumers seek something special.”

Growth driver

Keita Nagahori, chairman of JJA, said Japan saw a year-on-year increase of 2.3 per cent in the jewellery retail market in 2023 to reach an estimate of 1.0462 trillion yen (around US$7.33 billion). He attributed this to the depreciation of the Japanese yen and influx of foreign visitors.

“In Japan, we are facing an ageing population issue, and the number of young people purchasing wedding and engagement rings is declining. To address this, JJA introduced the Bridal Diamond Pavilion at JJF, with an aim to arouse younger consumers’ desire in purchasing engagement rings and bridal jewellery, ultimately nurturing their consumption habits,” Nagahori remarked.