The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) will no longer allow lab-grown, man-made, and/or synthetic gemstones at its shows beginning 2025.

The new directive, which takes effect at the AGTA GemFair Tucson in February next year, stipulates that no exhibitor may display loose gemstones or jewellery comprising non-natural gemstones at any AGTA show. 

“Considering how disruptive lab-grown diamonds have been in the market, AGTA Board of Directors decided to take a stance on man-made gemstones at its fairs to thwart potential confusion,” AGTA said. “It is perfectly acceptable for AGTA dealers to sell synthetic gems if they choose and so long as they are disclosed, but for the sake of clarity and peace of mind, buyers attending AGTA GemFairs can shop knowing that only natural gems will be available for purchase.”

Kimberly Collins, AGTA board president and owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems, added, “AGTA felt that it needed to be crystal clear to buyers that when they attend an AGTA show, they know that they are only shopping mined natural gems from the earth.”

Synthetic gemstones also lack the value inherent to natural gemstones, and there is a great dichotomy of colour that occurs in natural, mined coloured gemstones that cannot be duplicated in synthetics, continued AGTA.

“AGTA was founded in 1981 to represent the interests of wholesale dealers of natural gemstones, cultured and natural pearls,” said John W. Ford Sr, AGTA CEO. “The board’s decision is consistent with the core purpose upon which AGTA was founded.”

AGTA said it took into consideration the Gemological Institute of America’s description of synthetic gems as “man-made material with essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and optical and physical properties as the natural gem material.”

In addition, synthetic gems are not minerals, which is why AGTA recognises the following two similar definitions of the word from geological authorities. First, the British Geological Survey’s definition of a mineral is “a naturally occurring substance with distinctive chemical and physical properties, composition, and atomic structure.” 

Secondly, AGTA agrees with the US Geological Survey’s definition of a mineral as a “naturally occurring inorganic element or compound having an orderly internal structure and characteristic chemical composition, crystal form, and physical properties.”

AGTA board member John Bradshaw of John J. Bradshaw explained, “The definitions are essentially the same, but the keyword in both that is important is use of the word ‘natural.’ It is important to indicate that synthetic gems are not considered minerals because minerals are natural, and synthetics are not.”

A highly anticipated event in the coloured gemstone trade, AGTA GemFair Tucson brings together more than 8,000 buyers and 300 exhibitors every year. AGTA also organises AGTA GemFair Las Vegas in May.