Pearl traders are counting on buyers’ sustained appetite for fine pearls – from lustrous, larger-sized South Sea pearls to extremely unique natural pearls – to drive business in 2025.

Natural pearls such as conch and melo, for instance, are expected to perform strongly in the key markets of Asia, the US and Europe, according to Bertrand Ternat, founder of natural pearl specialist Ocean Flame.

“Melo pearls are traditionally bigger than other natural pearls. Buyers should take into consideration the shape, which is typically round, flame and colour. It must be intense orange,” explained Ternat. “A great deal of collectors favour melo pearls.” 

Top-quality melo pearls have always had a steady following in Asia and the US. 

Conch pearls, meanwhile, are highly sought after in Asia but are now gaining steam in Europe and North America. Coveted for their vibrant pink colour, shape and flame structure, conch pearls are naturally formed by fibrous crystals inside a rare sea snail called conch. They are non-nacreous, meaning they are not made of nacre or mother-of-pearl. 

There is limited supply of conch pearls amid steady demand, noted Ternat. Only one out of 10,000 to 15,000 shells produce a conch pearl and only 10 per cent of these are of gem quality.

Premium South Sea pearls will also continue to be highly desired by discerning buyers, Yvonne Pong, director of Wing Hang South Sea Pearl Co Ltd, noted. In particular, the market is training its sights on fine, superior-quality South Sea pearls. 

Pong said, “Buyers from Ukraine and Northern China tend to prefer larger pearls while those from Southeast Asia and Southern China favour smaller sizes. However, all buyers seek pearls with natural colour, lustrous appearance and flawless quality.” 

For instance, Wing Hang’s Phoenix necklace features 64 white South Sea pearls, ranging in size from 12mm to 15.9mm. The necklace is designed with two diamond-studded components, allowing it to transform into two shorter necklaces. 

“Each pearl is meticulously selected to create a perfectly matched colour necklace,” said Pong, noting that the supply of premium-quality pearls is becoming increasingly limited due to challenges posed by climate change.