This article first appeared in the Pearl Report 2025-2026.

As pearl farmers and jewellers, industry leader Autore Group is strategically positioned to showcase the pearl’s all-encompassing charm and relevance. Underlining the company’s success is its ability to cultivate South Sea pearls across its own farms and hand-select the finest of each harvest for its jewellery collections.

This vertically integrated model guarantees Autore pearls’ unmatched quality, sustainability and craftsmanship throughout their journey from ocean to fine jewellery.

Autore operates 10 farms across Australia and Indonesia, which are recognised for their certified sustainable practices and for protecting marine ecosystems while producing some of the most sought-after pearls in the world.

By controlling every stage of production, Autore ensures only the most exceptional pearls are chosen for its jewellery.

Meanwhile, Autore’s bespoke jewellery designs have been winning hearts and global competitions – setting the bar even higher for contemporary pearl jewellery.

With 11 international jewellery design accolades under its belt, Autore is the only Australian company to achieve such global recognition. Moving forward, the pearl specialist is laying the groundwork for fresh initiatives aimed at further championing South Sea pearls as modern, versatile and sustainable gems.

Autore is also celebrating a heritage milestone in 2026 – 35 years of Autore Group.

Redefining standards

In 2007, Autore introduced the AUTORE Five S’s™ – the world’s first comprehensive South Sea Pearl Classification Guide.

Autore founder Rosario Autore created the Five S’s system – Shine, Surface, Shape, Shade and Size – to provide a standardised guide to pearl grading, revealed Ruby Autore, head of Marketing and International Jewellery manager of Autore Group and founder and creative director of Autore Moda, the group’s contemporary demi-fine jewellery brand.

Before the system was developed, pearl evaluation was highly subjective, varying widely across markets. Rosario recognised that if pearls were to be elevated to the same level as diamonds and gemstones, the industry needed a shared, trusted language of quality, explained Ruby.

The Five S’s transformed that landscape. It became the first-of-its-kind framework, sufficiently detailed for experts while remaining intuitive for consumers, creating clarity and transparency across the trade.

This pioneering system provides a structured, transparent way to assess pearl quality, bridging the gap between producers, retailers and consumers, and has been widely adopted as a recognised trade standard.

Autore’s pearls come with a certificate that details the five different qualities, elevating consumers’ trust and understanding of the pearls they just purchased. Going above and beyond, Autore also identifies other gemstones used in the jewellery and what type of metal it was set into.

“The most important one for us is Shine, which pertains to lustre since this is the soul of the pearl. All the other S’s are somewhat subjective. Take Shape, for instance. Round is the most valuable, but I personally prefer drops,” stated the company official.

The framework’s widespread impact came to light when Rosario received a Medal of Distinction from the French Senate in 2008 recognising his contribution to the industry – a true testament to the importance of bringing accessibility to pearl education.

“The response has been remarkable. The trade values the way the Five S’s instils trust and consistency, while clients feel more confident in understanding and choosing pearls. I believe this framework will continue to expand pearls’ reach, helping them claim their rightful place beside other precious gems,” noted Ruby.

Business optimism

The company is upbeat about growth prospects across its wholesale and direct-to-client businesses, particularly in Australia and Asia, in 2025, coming from a strong performance in 2024.

“There is growing demand for South Sea pearls due to their sustainable and rare nature. The challenge lies in educating consumers about the value of these gems and the production process,” said Ruby.

Premium-quality pearls were top performers, with buyers seeking sustainable luxury alongside young high-net-worth individuals fuelling sales, she added.

Autore’s auction results also indicate strong market recovery amid slightly higher prices. “The type of lots coupled with the high quality and variety of goods mean that our auctions are still clearing 90 to 95 per cent of goods on offer,” Ruby continued.

Meanwhile, pricing for commercial products is on the uptick due to tighter supply and higher demand for entry-point necklaces.

Refined designs

Autore’s Jewellery Design Division, established in 2001, continues to shine globally, with pieces worn by celebrities and featured in productions like Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, Sex and the City and The Black Dahlia, to name a few. 

Its resplendent pearl jewellery collections, meanwhile, continue to rise in popularity. The Papillon Collection, for instance, celebrates transformation and rebirth through intricate butterfly motifs, blending delicate designs with the natural radiance of South Sea pearls.

The Ophidia Collection, for its part, draws inspiration from serpentine forms – bold, fluid and symbolic of eternity and power. “Both collections reflect our heritage of artistry, where South Sea pearls are always at the centre, reimagined through rich storytelling and exquisite craftsmanship,” remarked Ruby.

Several strategic collaborations, from fashion to art, are also on the horizon, allowing Autore to bring pearls into new cultural contexts. Meanwhile, fresh collections focusing on refined, wearable and sustainably crafted statement pieces from both Autore and Autore Moda are scheduled for launch in 2025.

“Additionally, there is continued market expansion, particularly across Asia, Europe and Australia, supported by a strong network of auctions and wholesale channels,” shared Ruby. “Asia remains a major focus as it is a market that is hungry for sustainable, design-led jewellery with a strong story.”

A lustrous path

Autore has been at the forefront of sustainable pearl farming for many years. According to Ruby, the company’s operations in Australia and Indonesia are built on regenerative aquaculture.

At the core of its sustainability agenda are conscious farming, marine protection, community empowerment, reef regeneration and education, to name a few.

“We remain optimistic about growth as consumers gravitate toward timeless, meaningful purchases. South Sea pearls – rare and sustainable – offer exactly that,” noted the company official. “Our diverse market presence, spanning Asia, Europe and Australia, makes us resilient against regional downturns and shifting policies.”

Pearls are inherently sustainable, she added, noting that their very creation depends on pristine, balanced ecosystems, making them one of the few gems where environmental stewardship and luxury are inextricably linked.

In a world that craves accountability, authenticity and innovation, pearls stand out as natural storytellers of place, time and care.

“At Autore, we embrace this responsibility by sourcing from our own certified sustainable farms and ensuring transparency from ocean to jewel. But sustainability is only one part of the allure, the other being cultural and creative reinvention. Pearls must continue to evolve in how they are worn and expressed,” remarked Ruby.

Hence, Autore’s focus on design innovation – marrying pearls’ timeless elegance with modern aesthetics. By doing so, pearls remain not just relevant, but deeply resonant, across generations of wearers who seek meaning as much as beauty, she noted.