This article first appeared in the JNA November/December 2024 issue.

Since the first discovery of platinum deposits in South Africa a century ago, the country has become a major player in the platinum sector. It is now witnessing growing market potential for locally crafted platinum jewellery – unique pieces imbued with deep-rooted traditional heritage yet pulsating with contemporary style.

Platinum has become the metal of choice for South African jewellery designers due to its durability and resiliency, enabling them to push creative boundaries.

“I love platinum because it is different and rare, and you can really test its limits,” said Lungile Xhwantini, who topped the professional category of PlatAfrica 2023, South Africa’s platinum jewellery design and manufacturing competition.

Xhwantini started his own business in 2021 after honing his skills at The Platinum Incubator in Rustenburg, which helps budding entrepreneurs become platinum jewellery manufacturers and designers. His winning entry, “Khalifa,” is inspired by Dubai’s mesmerising architectural marvel, Burj Khalifa. “It is the tallest building in the world, flexible against the wind and a first of its kind. This is the essence I wanted to reflect in my creation – an exceptional piece that is resilient and flexible, mirroring the unique attributes of platinum,” explained Xhwantini.

Jana Basson, who took first place in PlatAfrica 2023’s student category, shares a similar affinity for the metal. A native of Otsuern in the Western Cape, Basson is currently studying jewellery design and manufacturing at university.

“I have worked with silver, gold and platinum, and I have to say that I prefer platinum. Its tenacity allows me to create different textures and layers, which can be as thin or as thick as I envision. I also like its shiny finish. All in all, platinum enables me to realise my design ideas easier,” Basson explained.

Texture is a signature feature of Basson’s designs. “You can see various finishings, surfaces and layers, as well as movements in my creations,” she said.

Trending designs

According to Basson, Mother Nature is her source of inspiration. This is evident in her award-winning piece at PlatAfrica 2023, which had “Emergence” as theme.

“I interpreted the theme as a metamorphosis. People have varying interpretations of this piece; they may see it as an armadillo, a scorpion or a rattlesnake,” Basson said. “It is a versatile piece that can be worn as both a bracelet and a necklace. Versatility remains highly favoured in the market.”

Meanwhile, Xhwantini focuses on developing jewellery pieces tailored to consumer demand. “I realised that if a design comes with a compelling story, it resonates more with buyers,” he said. “I want to create something that would make people love platinum and make them understand that platinum is as rare and unique as every human being.”

According to Fahmida Smith, Principal Market Development of Anglo American Platinum, which organises PlatAfrica, consumer preferences are shifting toward lightweight, cost-effective yet elaborate and elegant designs.

"Platinum jewellery, unlike those in other metals, does not scratch easily nor lose its colour, making it a nice heirloom piece that one can hand down from generation to generation. People are appreciating platinum jewellery from this perspective,” she added.

Market development

With two separate categories for professional jewellery designers and students or apprentices, PlatAfrica plays an important role in fostering innovative design and manufacturing expertise in the South African jewellery industry while promoting local talents internationally.

Smith told JNA that the competition aims to address three challenges in South Africa’s platinum jewellery manufacturing sector: Limited access to platinum, craftsmanship development and access to market.

By providing participants with platinum, PlatAfrica gives them the opportunity to work with the precious metal and refine their skills. “As the premium market development initiative for Anglo American Platinum, PlatAfrica is not confined to the South African industry. We aim to achieve global impact,” Smith said. “It is important for us to get South African platinum jewellery on the world stage.”

Global audience

To raise the international presence of South African platinum jewellery, PlatAfrica established an online sales platform and conducted live auctions and global showcases. In addition, winners in both the professional and student categories have the opportunity to manufacture their capsule collections for inclusion in the PlatAfrica collection, which will be available for sale in overseas markets.

“We are trying to bring a commercial element to the competition so designers could have access to international markets,” Smith explained. “Last year, we piloted capsule collections inspired by the statement pieces created by some of the winners of the 2023 professional category, targeting the US, European, Japanese and Indian markets.”

PlatAfrica worked with Platinum Guild International (PGI®) to develop design briefs and themes for the annual competition. Participants are expected to create a one-of-a-kind statement piece accordingly. Smith said the brief and theme are decided based on market research to ensure they align with prevailing trends. Designers are however welcome to incorporate African cultural elements or aesthetics into their work.

The theme for the 2024 edition, “Legacy and beyond”, celebrates the 25th anniversary of PlatAfrica and the 100th anniversary of the discovery of platinum in South Africa, highlighting the history of the metal. “This year, we saw a significant increase in both the quality and number of entries – 25 per cent more than the 2023 edition,” Smith said.

She also noted growing market interest in information on the provenance of materials and responsible sourcing. PlatAfrica is thus piloting a digital passport for its capsule collections. Buyers will be able to access details of the jewellery piece, including design inspiration, metal, materials and origins.