This article first appeared in the Pearl Report 2023-2024.

White South Sea pearls across all qualities and shapes are enjoying tremendous success in the global trade as demand continues to soar. Australia-based Autore, a renowned name in the South Sea pearl sector, can attest to this sparkling development.

According to company CEO Rosario Autore, there has been a substantial jump in sales of South Sea pearls, whites in particular, in the last two years. Product choices have become diversified, too.

“We are now seeing an increased demand across unconventional shapes, which were not as popular in the past,” noted Rosario. “These include unusual drops, baroques, circles and semi-drops. Meanwhile, rounds, near-rounds, ovals and high buttons still command a
premium price.”

Asia is Autore’s major market, especially for pearl auctions and finished jewellery as well as pearl by-products such as the Pinctada Maxima shell and pearl meat.

Strength and leadership

Over the last 10 years, Autore has actively expanded its operations by acquiring a quota holder and lease site in East Arnhem, Australia and establishing two more sites
in Indonesia.

It also maintains the lead in research and development, which was instrumental in helping Autore produce exceptional-quality pearls that are coveted for their superior colour and lustre. Rosario explained that through this ever-improving technical expertise, live shell specimens on its farms have tripled in number over the last four years. The company is also seeing a higher percentage of top-quality white pearls being harvested from both its Indonesian and Australian farms.

“Growing our production is of paramount importance as it is at the core of our business,” noted Rosario. “Unfortunately, Covid disruptions prevented us from fishing and seeding oysters in 2022, so there will be reduced production from Australia in 2024.”

The company continues to implement a hybrid auction model that combines a traditional format with online viewing – an innovative measure adopted by the company during the pandemic.

“Auction results have been extremely satisfying,” shared Rosario. “Clearance rates are above 97 to 98 per cent. Our latest auction held in May 2023 achieved total sales of close to AUD15 million (about US$9.6 million).”

Pearl perfection

The future is also bright for Autore’s fine jewellery department. Rosario explained that majority of its high-end, bespoke jewellery pieces were sold in 2022 and 2023 post-Covid, which contributed positively to overall growth.

The pearl specialist is largely known for its award-winning, contemporary pearl jewellery designs. Its pieces have been worn by celebrities in red-carpet events as well as popular TV shows. Rosario said Autore considers “articulation, realistic representation and choice of gemstone” as pillars of its design philosophy.

“We focus on fluidity and functionality,” he added. “The jewellery moves as an extension of the body. This is evident in our iconic Ready to Wear Collection as well as our one-of-a-kind creations.”

Attention to detail and craftsmanship set every Autore jewellery piece apart from what is in the market now. Its beloved nature-inspired collections feature authentic re-imaginings of flora and fauna and other organic elements, with pearl at the heart of each design.

Moving forward, Autore is focusing on developing and expanding its presence in existing markets such as Europe, Asia and Australia through trade fairs, auctions and private sales. It is unveiling a new collection within the year, designed by Autore’s Creative Director Jane Autore, who has won three international jewellery design awards for
the company.