This article first appeared in the JNA May/June 2024 issue.

In an era of individualism and inclusivity, gender boundaries are gradually dissipating. Innovative fashion collections are blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear – and so are jewellery designs.

The so-called unisex jewellery per se is not new, but the industry is now seeing more refined pieces continuously pushing the envelope of design.

Traditional perceptions of jewellery tend to associate men’s jewellery with masculine traits such as strength and boldness while female-oriented pieces are often presented as softer and more delicate. Today’s genderless designs, however, are reshaping these conventional notions of masculinity and femininity.

Fluid designs

As gender-neutral jewellery continues to gain traction in the market worldwide, it is becoming more of a staple rather than a mere trend. Joy Wei Chow, creative director of Joy Wei Chow Fine Jewelry from Taiwan, is at the forefront of this design revolution.

She said men’s jewellery often embodies geometric shapes that convey a sense of strength and power. In contrast, women’s jewellery tends to feature delicate, softer lines.

Chow explained, “The essence of gender-fluid designs is blending these binary distinctions into a singular aspect that embodies softness within strength and strength within softness.”

Chow’s forte lies in utilising lines that flow smoothly into the designs to achieve her artistic pursuits. She compares lines to calligraphy as a tool to express tension and vigour, and create intriguing designs that unleash an artist’s vivid imagination.

Chow's experiences living and studying in the US alongside her exposure to American culture are reflected in her creations. Her distinctive designs feature bold and expressive lines as well as fancy cut and freeform gemstones and diamonds that reflect individuality.

Her latest creation – the Fintastic ear cuff – demonstrates her unique aesthetic approach. It features an amber centre stone set in 18-karat white gold and black rhodium-plated black gold, with the two-toned design adding layers and depth to the jewellery piece.

No boundaries

Genderless jewellery not only defies traditional norms but is also breaking creative boundaries by removing gender-specific characteristics in jewellery designs.

“Neutral style is a boon for designers as it eliminates gender boundaries at the design level. We do not have to design exclusively for men or women as our jewellery creations can now be appreciated and worn by all genders,” said Daisy Chan, an award-winning jewellery designer from Hong Kong.

Chan’s Muse Collection has garnered international acclaim, earning prestigious awards such as the Muse Design Awards 2021 (platinum awardee), the New York Product Design Awards 2021 (gold awardee) and the IDA Design Awards 2021 (silver awardee).

She has also embraced gender-fluid designs for her jewellery brand, Thinking Daisy Jewellery. Her Stone Collection, for instance, featuring rock-like, nature-inspired sterling silver rings, has been well-received by both male and female customers.

The designer recently unveiled a new piece called East Dam – a statement ring that exhibits more masculine attributes. It was inspired by the popular High Island Reservoir East Dam in Sai Kung, Hong Kong.

“I thought it would be more appealing to men for its larger and more rugged design. To my surprise, it has gained greater popularity among women,” Chan said. “Modern women are drawn to edgier and more chic designs that go beyond traditional gemstone and diamond settings. Some men, on the other hand, are not so keen on conventionally masculine designs.”

Universal appeal

According to jewellery designers, certain artistic themes, especially those depicting everyday lives, resonate with genders across the board.

Chow highlighted the popularity of animal-themed jewellery, which was central to her Uptown Funky Dog Collection.

“Animal-inspired jewellery is enjoying strong demand this year compared to a few years ago probably because fewer people are having children nowadays and are instead having pets. The dog motif particularly appeals to a wide range of customers, regardless of gender,” she added.

Each piece in the collection carries its own story, inspired by Zhou Wei's observations of everyday life. One of the pieces, "Foodie Dog," features popular food items like croissants and pizza.

Thomas Tjiong, director of Cattivo Jewelry Co Ltd, believes that gender-fluid designs are taking centre stage due to the market’s ever-growing appetite for non-conforming jewellery pieces. Case in point is the strong momentum for pearl jewellery and the rising trend of “puffy style” jewellery.

Cattivo’s pair of Duality Puff earrings is one of the company’s fast-moving pieces. These earrings designed in a striking two-toned, double-sided format “seamlessly blends fashionable aesthetics with the essence of fluidity and self-expression,” shared Tjiong.