This article first appeared in the JNA January/February 2024 issue.

Jewellers are aiming to catch the fancy of buyers with their latest collections that increasingly combine traditional and modern elements. At the heart of these jewellery pieces are time-honoured motifs of nature and art as well as a story-centric design approach and the use of innovative materials.

Wearable artworks

Zuri Jewellery’s new collection, Love Through The Ages, is an interesting confluence of art and jewellery design. Conceptualised in collaboration with renowned illustrator and artist Steven Choi, the pieces were inspired by Choi's original artwork depicting a timeless love story.

Victor Yiu, director of Zuri Jewellery, explained, “Our goal is to captivate younger audiences and introduce them to a joyful jewellery experience. Steven’s fairytale-inspired designs are very popular among young people. His creative vision clicked perfectly with our goal.”

Choi told JNA he drew inspiration from the Chinese legend The Butterfly Lovers or Liang Zhu about an unconventional romance between two lovers who defy feudal society restrictions in pursuit of true love. "My artwork features a butterfly intricately formed by the intertwined figures of the couple and incorporates a fan motif that, in the story, is symbolic of their love. This imagery captures the essence of their eternal love,” Choi explained.

This motif is reflected throughout the collection, with enamel as the hero material to capture the essence of Choi’s artwork. Ada Fung, director of Zuri Jewellery, said achieving multiple layers of colour for enamel was challenging, but this was made possible by an expert team of craftsmen.

Choi cherished his first foray into jewellery design, adding that jewellery making is “the next level of artistic expression.” For his part, Yiu said experimenting with creative concepts in jewellery designs is crucial to driving new demand, especially among a younger clientele.

Harnessing creativity

Subdued sophistication is also a rising trend in the jewellery sector, with buyers increasingly gravitating towards the classic, minimalist look. This is what designer Ken Chan wanted to achieve with his Simple Luxury and Integrated Collections in 18-karat gold. The pieces are further adorned with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and other coloured gemstones.

Simple Luxury consists of sophisticated diamond pieces in dainty designs while Integrated features unisex pieces that combine different materials. Chan noted, “The trend now is leaning towards simpler designs. Inspiration comes from everyday experiences and how I see life. So far, the feedback has been positive.”

Modest elegance is also the theme of jewellery manufacturer EJI’s D Collection. Jewellery pieces in yellow, white or rose gold with diamonds and gemstones feature a distinctive elongated padlock design. The hero element is a breakthrough swivelling clasp mechanism that offers enhanced functionality.

EJI also expanded its popular Butterfly Collection with ethereal diamond- and gem-decorated themes. “Paying tribute to the mesmerising beauty of butterflies, this collection embodies lightness, elegance and femininity,” the company noted.

Meanwhile, colour is king in the fine jewellery collections of Japanese designer Keiko Ito of Jewelry of Raden and Urushi. Vibrant shades of pink, purple, green and blue are achieved using Raden (mother-of-pearl inlay) and Urushi (Japanese lacquer) interspersed with diamonds and coloured gemstones in 18-karat gold. Ito‘s intricately designed, culture-inspired collections have a solid international following.

She commented, “I use genuine natural materials and intricate craftsmanship to produce every jewellery piece. Only a refined and meticulous artist can bring out the colours and lustre of seashells and the gloss of lacquer.”

Similarly, Walasons Ltd is turning the spotlight on colourful jewellery pieces in its skyline-inspired Colours of Joy, which relies on enamel to achieve vivid hues. Pieces in the Fascinating Facets Collection, meanwhile, are testaments to the beauty of perfect geometry. Their linear accents and mesmerising curves studded with scintillating diamonds come together in structural harmony in alluring jewellery pieces.

“Producing a smooth, silky finish and consistent pastel shades for enamel is often challenging. During the downtime brought about by the pandemic, we focused on perfecting this technique. Today, our finishing for enamel, gold and diamond combinations is among the best in the market,” the company said.

Bridal elegance

Engagement and wedding ring specialist EGF – Eduard G. Fidel GmbH is making waves in the bridal jewellery category with new designs from its award-winning Heritage Collection and eternity rings. It is also offering jewellery pieces set in a newly developed alloy – SunsetGold.

Building on bold designs in the German company’s archives as part of its 88th anniversary celebrations, the Heritage Collection adds sparkle to wedding rings by showering these with diamond-cut facets.

The wedding rings form a harmonious entity: The woman’s ring is adorned with diamonds in every facet, while the man’s ring contrasts with polished facet surfaces. Its eternity rings likewise provide a new take on commitment through elegant details such as diamond-cut facets, soft flowing lines or alternating diamond cuts and sizes.

EGF's rings are also now available in a new gold colour, SunsetGold, whose subtle shade captures the moment when the sun slowly disappears in the horizon.

“At that moment, the sky fills with a warm, golden glow that instils a sense of peace and tranquillity. With this inspiration, we developed a patented alloy with a unique colour between white and rosé,” the company noted.

Available in two different fineness, 585 and 750, the patented alloy has a Vickers hardness of 220 HV, making it resistant to scratches. It can be used for both CNC production and casting.

Another highlight in the wedding and engagement jewellery sector is the alluring and technique-driven collections of Japan’s Abe Jewelry Co Ltd. Showcasing the perfection of Japanese craftsmanship, its Tsumugiwa series features unique surface textures and meaningful motifs. Meanwhile, rings in the Aimokume series are produced using the Mokume-game technique, which results in distinctive layered patterns. The rings’ soft and warm wooden patterns are resplendent in their elegant simplicity.