This article first appeared in the JNA January/February 2024 issue.

Glimmer of brilliance

Shimmer brings together vintage looks, disco themes and superstar vibes. Arunava Chakraborty, senior manager for Design and Product Development of India’s Titan Co Ltd who works on Tata Group's jewellery brands Tanishq, Zoya and Mia, calls this ‘Grandma Chic,’ a throwback to the fashion of the 1960s made modern and stylised for 2024. Not of the “bling” variety, the modern shimmer is recreated by textures and techniques. Diamond-cut beads, textured gold and cleverly set diamonds hint at bright lights in a more muted and refined setting. Coin jewellery pieces with their vintage shimmer are likewise adapted to modern tastes.

Natural fixation

Nature continues to be an endless font of inspiration. Flora and fauna motifs remain ubiquitous but exhibit more contemporary flair, either showing more intricate details or adopting greater abstraction and fluidity. Butterflies are especially popular, and underwater themes are dominating high jewellery brands’ collections.

Digital interlude

Jewellery alludes to the world’s digital dimension through prints, textures and techniques. Pixelated graphics and social connectivity are recreated through mesh accents in precious metal, elaborate filigree, woven gold designs and netted diamond details.

Gender fluid

Perhaps the most socially relevant design direction of these times, gender-fluid jewellery creations speak to the discourse on diversity and inclusivity that has gained ground in recent years. But more than a social issue, this design aesthetic acknowledges changing consumer preferences where gender no longer confines taste. The approach is likewise different, with designers setting out to specifically create jewellery that would appeal to both men and women. This contrasts significantly from men’s jewellery that women may also like and wear, and vice versa.

Modern geometry

Linear, angular and circular details remain in vogue, veering more towards edgy sophistication than the youthful exuberance of earlier “Instagram-ready” versions. Pentagonal, hexagonal and nonagonal shapes likewise emerge in jewellery creations and coloured gemstones, feeding into consumer desire for non-traditional yet grounded avenues for personalisation and self-expression. Asymmetrical silhouettes continue to weave their magic as well.

Social capsules

Narrative matters in 2024. As storytelling takes precedence in most quarters, symbolism, emotional resonance and social commentary are ever more important in jewellery design. This could be as simple as the traditionally meaningful symbols of hearts, crosses and good-luck talismans to more elaborately expressive creations. The cosmos is a fast-emerging design aesthetic, with elegant stars, moons, zodiac signs and swirling universes captured in fine jewellery. Amazingly detailed microcosms of the world are another concept gaining ground in the jewellery world.

Material interests

The use of unconventional materials in jewellery is not new. What is new though is the organic sense such collaborations now bring. Wood, enamel, ceramic and even feathers are increasingly featuring in jewellery creations in a manner that is more natural than sensational, adding texture and character to the piece.

Beyond the norm

Light-hearted tributes to popular culture also serve to define mood and personality. The Barbie movie last year sparked a pink craze that had jewellery materials and creations in softer shades of pink moving well. Licensed or themed collections will continue to serve current fandoms. Brands are also pushing the envelope on whimsy, with Boucheron filling its More is More Collection with highly creative, unconventional jewellery concepts. Robert Wan Tahiti also gives a new twist to Tahitian pearls with its new Ariake Pearls that fuse art and jewellery.

More than one

Transformable jewellery is sweeping the market, with multifunctional pieces all the rage once again. Brooches, which are making an extremely strong comeback, lie at the heart of this design direction. Many a piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant. Another significant model of the multifunctional wave is jewellery that can be deconstructed into different parts and looks, providing the versatility and value today’s consumers seek.

Kaleidoscopic wonders

More than ever, colour dominates design principles. A given in 2024 is the rise of peach themes on the back of Pantone naming Peach Fuzz as colour of the year. This will likely also usher in a palette of pastels to complement the overall softness and delicacy of the soothing colour pick. At the other end of the spectrum, bold colour combinations are expected to inject vitality into a world gearing up for challenges ahead.