This article first appeared in the JNA September/ October 2022 issue.

Influencer marketing is coming of age. As it cements its authority over traditional platforms and expands its dominion over social media, it faces new regulations and responsibilities as a marketing channel for consumer goods and services.

Since July 1, 2022, influencers in Europe with more than 500,000 followers have been subjected to stricter advertising rules such as proper disclosure of paid partnerships or sponsored posts. In the Netherlands, which is home to more than 22,000 influencers, social media influencers must register with the Media Authority and divulge information about their company on their respective accounts.

Influencer marketing is likewise coming under closer scrutiny in the US. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires good disclosure of endorsers’ relationship to a brand on social media. Any material connection to the endorsed brand – whether personal, familial, employment or financial such as free or discounted products and services or outright payment – should be made obvious in the endorsement message in influencers’ social media feeds. The FTC is currently reviewing its guidelines for stricter compliance.

The evolving landscape may prove daunting for influencers and brands but this dynamic channel continues to play an increasingly pivotal role in luxury brands’ marketing strategies.

Boucheron’s take

According to Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO of Boucheron, the company started with traditional celebrity endorsements. It continues to work with celebrities who wear Boucheron jewellery during big-ticket events like the Cannes Film Festival and prestigious awards ceremonies. “Celebrity collaborations are a great way to express Boucheron’s ethos on style and diversity. Some talents quickly become friends of the maison,” shared Poulit-Duquesne.

In 2020, the jeweller named influential women in the entertainment and fashion world – Nour Arida, Alexa Chung, Zhou Dongyu, Hannah Quinlivan, Youn-Jung and Rola – to represent the house as part of its “Together as One” year-end campaign. As international ambassadors, the women embodied Boucheron’s timeless allure, expressed in their own individual styles.

Digital “influencing,” however, was a relatively new concept for Boucheron. The company said it became apparent that an online approach was needed to tap into the Asian market, especially during Chinese New Year and the Chinese Valentine’s Day.

In 2022, Boucheron enlisted influencers to participate in its Spring-Summer campaign.

Poulit-Duquesne explained, “The challenge lies in ensuring consistency throughout the selected profiles and content. We rely on the expertise of our local teams who know the specificities of local social media, their audiences and expectations. The key to success is for local teams to be fully aligned with the brand’s vision to identify and properly onboard effective ambassadors in their markets.”

Most brands, Boucheron included, value genuine or organic collaborations as the most authentic and desirable. Paid partnerships however are inevitable, given that the influencer market has become saturated.

“When we cannot go for spontaneous posts, we follow the law on mandatory sponsored mentions when required. Brands need to invent new ways of enchanting influencers,” Poulit-Duquesne said.

There is “influencer overload” in the market today, the company official continued. “Brands keep naming international, high-level spokespersons. This could confuse audiences who may not remember who is representing who,” noted Poulit-Duquesne.

Changing future

Poulit-Duquesne said influencer marketing will continue to thrive and move towards increased authenticity and micro-influence. “This means that KOLs or key opinion leaders are likely to give way to KOCs or key opinion consumers,” she noted.

At Boucheron, “influencing” goes beyond leveraging celebrities or influencers with stronger social media following. It also involves capitalising on the influence of other stakeholders such as stylists, corporate institutions and artists.

While Boucheron enjoys an established reputation in Europe, the Middle East and Japan, it wants to increase brand awareness in Asia, especially in China, through influencer marketing.

“We do not have one favourite influencer, but we have one favourite profile – a balanced mix between style, singularity and shared values,” said Poulit-Duquesne.

Luxury influencing

Olivier Billon, CEO and founder of YKONE, an international influencer marketing agency working with high-end luxury brands, is a pioneer in the field of luxury influencer marketing. His agency has helped several luxury houses, from Dior to Burberry, Hugo Boss and Cartier, to find influencer matches.

Billon explained that the collaboration between an influencer and a luxury brand is grounded in shared values and a sense of commonality, whether the influencer is a consumer and advocate or his or her personal brand connects with that of the luxury company. This sense of harmony bestows authenticity on the partnership.

An ideal collaboration likewise has an element of surprise that still feels organic. He said, “At YKONE, we see ourselves as architects of great collaborations. In the summer of 2021, we helped Nespresso team up with Italian blogger Chiara Ferragni. It was a well-received campaign that balanced authenticity with surprise.”

The collaboration involved a limited-edition collection of Nespresso machines and coffee accessories designed by self-confessed coffee lover Ferragni.

Return on investment is not easy to measure though, Billon admitted. Still, influencer activations can be tracked based on engagement, awareness, media value and conversion.

“In jewellery, influencer marketing is a potent tool to increase brand awareness and attribution. Influencers are a gateway for consumers to discover new products and social media is where these products are born. A powerful influencer strategy ensures the brand remains desirable,” he stated .

Echoing Poulit-Duquesne’s sentiment, Billon raised the need for authentic content. With video-based streaming platforms like TikTok reaching a tipping point, content trends are likewise evolving rapidly.

Consumers crave more organic and unscripted content, which could be a challenge for the jewellery industry. “This means that jewellery brands, masters at creating perfectly curated and polished imagery, must find a way to stay relevant in this new paradigm without compromising the brand’s elevation,” remarked Billon.

Jewellery influencer

Katerina Perez, founder of her eponymous jewellery website, said her influencer journey was organic in nature. Her passion for writing about jewellery started when she was still working in the jewellery industry. When she noticed a growing interest in her content, she left her job to pursue her dream of working full-time on her platform. She would eventually seek sponsorships to finance her endeavour.

“I ran my blog for two years without sponsorships, got my name out there and demonstrated consistent quality in my work,” shared Perez. “Back then, it was much harder to establish yourself as an influencer as brands were not accustomed to paying influencers. If it were not for my passion and obsession with jewellery, I would not be here now.”

She is celebrating her 10th year as a jewellery influencer in 2023.

Perez shared that 80 per cent of her company’s income is generated by promotional articles and social media posts while the remaining 20 per cent comes from consultations, training and personal appearances. She cited creativity, continued engagement amid tough competition and industry expertise as vital for influencers to remain credible and relevant moving forward.