Renowned Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung stunned the jewellery and fashion world when she walked the 2004 Cannes Film Festival red carpet wearing a single dangling earring. It was fresh and brave – a testament to the ever-changing landscape of jewellery design and style.

After 17 years, Qeelin – the brand behind that diamond-studded earring – is still making waves in the fine jewellery universe with its edgy, whimsical and revolutionary take on design and manufacturing.

According to Dennis Chan, founder and creative director of Qeelin, many of the company’s offerings are sold individually and not paired. The designs also adhere to a universal philosophy, one that infuses China’s rich heritage and history with a more contemporary, youthful allure.

Timeless and timely

Established in 2004, the company has always strived for balance and harmony as the foundations of its collections. Chinese beliefs and philosophy play a crucial role in design conceptualisation so most of Qeelin’s pieces are considered emblematic.

Its iconic collection, Wulu, presents the mythical powers of hulu – a Chinese gourd – as a symbol of hope and positivity.

Wulu is traditionally associated with health and success while its figure 8 shape invites wealth in Chinese culture. Its appeal is anchored in its elegant simplicity, interpreted in diamond-inlaid sinuous lines. The infamous Cannes red carpet earring was a Wulu piece.

Since its debut, the collection has been reinvented many times to produce fresh, inspiring and equally exceptional iterations with the easily recognisable shape at the centre. It is also celebrated as an East-meets-West icon, representing the brand’s enduring quest for the perfect juncture between archaic contemplations and the modern life. Chan remarked, “The ancient Chinese believe Wulu brings blessings and positive energy. In view of the pandemic, I believe we need Wulu now, more than any other time in recent history.”

Other creative elements come into play. Qeelin’s design DNA also embraces playfulness, humour and originality, resulting in jewellery pieces that inspire ingenuity – something that resonates profoundly with today’s consumers.

“Not only is Qeelin’s innovation and creativity apparent in the designs, but also in the myriad ways that the jewellery may be worn,” explained Chan. “The Wulu Collection, created at the founding of the brand, is emblematic of this concept.”

Qeelin likewise takes pride in its inventive jewellery manufacturing process. For instance, Qeelin’s panda-themed Bo Bo jewellery pieces have moveable heads and limbs as well as a “fantasy wardrobe” comprising glittering diamond outfits so the characters can seamlessly change appearances.

The Qin Qin Goldfish Collection meanwhile features micro magnets placed strategically on the fish’s mouth, compelling it to touch lips with its “partner” as if interlocked in a loving kiss.

“These playful, intricate designs resonate with the wearer’s sense of humour,” shared Chan. “Dazzling from afar, Qeelin jewellery is even more captivating up close, inviting new conversations with its playful, interactive elements.” Qeelin uses 18-karat gold, diamonds, coloured gemstones and fine leather to create versatile and relevant designs.

The brand’s artistic philosophy also melds perfectly with modern consumers’ quest for meaningful life experiences and individual expression. Every piece carries a rich cultural connotation, which reinterprets traditional symbols using new, stylish concepts.

French luxury conglomerate Kering acquired a majority stake in Qeelin in 2012, with a focus on bolstering the group's foothold in China. Over the years, Qeelin has developed an extensive retail network in prestigious shopping districts globally. In Asia alone, the brand has a presence in China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea and Thailand. It also has boutiques in France, Italy and Portugal in Europe, the US and Canada, as well as Australia and New Zealand.

Oriental chic

Apart from Wulu, Qeelin’s other collections are equivalently enchanting. The Bo Bo Collection is an ode to childhood, evoking fond memories of a soft and cuddly stuffed toy – a child’s special companion and first best friend, according to Chan.

The collection was first introduced in Paris in 2006 before making its mark across the world. In his designs, Chan put creative conventions to the test by merging the well-loved teddy bear and panda in homage to Eastern and Western traditions.

The collection features pendants, earrings and rings in platinum, and white and yellow gold embellished with white or black diamonds and coloured gemstones.

The quintessential Chinese lion dance meanwhile takes centre stage in Qeelin’s Xi Xi Collection. Performed to the sound of gongs and drums, the dance symbolises a vibrant, powerful and awe-inspiring celebration. The same is true with Xi Xi. According to Chan, this endearing and joyful dancing lion is reimagined as bejewelled necklaces, earrings and bracelets in 18-karat white and rose gold. White and black diamonds, rubies and onyx stones capture the dazzling, festive nature of the dance.

Another interesting aspect of the jewellery is the lion’s moveable jaws, lending further credence to the brand’s innovative spirit. “Tied to swinging tassels in the shape of ancient Chinese copper coins, the lions capture the motion and strength of the wild animal jumping and playing around,” noted the company official.

The Yu Yi Collection, for its part, takes inspiration from the “longevity lock.” As with all Qeelin’s designs, the jewellery pieces stand as modern replications of 

the popular Chinese talisman. The collection offers an extensive range of necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings in 18-karat white and rose gold adorned with rubies, black and white onyx stones, and diamonds.

Bright future

Qeelin is preparing to launch fresh additions to its beloved creations. According to Chan, the Wulu Mini Sautoir is a new series under the well-known Wulu Collection that is expected to find favour among the brand’s international clientele. The Mini Sautoir features lighter, shorter chains.

Described as “elegant yet casual and versatile,” the Wulu Mini Sautoir combines eight mini hulus in three forms — 18-karat rose gold, pavé diamonds and brilliant red enamel. Buyers may choose from a variety of chain lengths – 18 to 20 inches, 30 to 32 inches, or 36 to 38 inches. Cementing Qeelin’s exceptional brand of balance and harmony, the pieces can be worn alone for a minimalist style or stacked together for maximum appeal.

“The timeless beauty of Wulu makes it easy to mix and match for daily wear. Designed for modern women on the go, Qeelin fine jewellery truly exudes effortless style you can personalise,” noted Chan.