At the heart of Southeastern Thailand is Chanthaburi – a city widely recognised for its rich gemstone resource, skilled cutters and so-called burners, or experts in gemstone heating and other treatments. Data from the Chanthaburi Gem and Jewelry Traders Association showed that 80 percent of Thailand’s coloured gemstone exports are cut and treated here.

Land of gems

Chanthaburi’s gemstone industry began centuries ago when rubies and sapphires were found here and neighbouring Trat. In 1977, the discovery of Siamese rubies spearheaded a gemstone rush in these areas, which then became known as the world’s ruby capital. By the end of the 20th century however, majority of the ruby mines were depleted.

According to Chanthaburi-based gemstone manufacturer and trader Phuket Khunaprapakorn, only a few small-scale yellow sapphire mines are operating in the region. Khunaprapakorn was former president, and now senior advisor to the president, of the Chanthaburi Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.

When the mines were exhausted, Thai traders travelled to other countries, particularly Africa, to purchase rough gems such as rubies and sapphires, which were brought back to Chanthaburi for cutting and treatment. The historic mining town then became a gem-processing centre, teeming with skilled cutters and specialists in gemstone treatment.

"The bulk of our rubies are imported from Mozambique, Madagascar and Myanmar, while the sapphires are from Sri Lanka and Madagascar," explained Khunaprapakorn. "Thai cutters know how to bring out the gems’ innate beauty. Beginning with the pre-forming process, they choose the right positioning of gems before cutting. With years of experience, they have developed knowledge and skills that were passed on from one generation to the next."

Veteran gem trader Matee Jungsanguansith, founder of World Sapphire Trading Co Ltd, remarked, "Each factory has its own heat treatment technique, which was greatly enhanced throughout the years. Gems are heated using an appropriate amount of temperature, under the right condition. This is a skill unique to Thai manufacturers."

Chanthaburi is likewise well-known for its highly sought-after weekend gem markets on Gems Road. Sellers set up makeshift stalls to offer buyers from around the globe an expansive selection of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, and aquamarine and topaz stones, to name a few.

Buyers meanwhile can rent tables in indoor markets, shops or alleys to wait for brokers to bring their goods. This one-of-a-kind buying and selling culture makes Chanthaburi a truly dynamic gem-trading centre.

"The major buyers are from India, China and Europe," Khunaprapakorn revealed. Jungsanguansith added that most polished coloured gemstones are sold as wholesale items to major Thai and international jewellery manufacturers.

Thailand also offers various gem and jewellery courses from the Faculty of Gemological Sciences and Applied Arts at Rambhai Barni Rajabhat University and from the Faculty of Gems at Burapha University, Chanthaburi Campus.

New challenges

Chanthaburi is still one of the biggest gemstone- trading markets in the world but it now faces the challenge of diminishing gem resources. In fact, the number of gemstones discovered from mines in other countries and redirected to Chanthaburi for cutting has considerably gone down.

"Some gemstone mining countries also want to develop their manufacturing know-how, so they export fewer raw materials," Khunaprapakorn said. "Thailand has to strengthen its relationship with these countries by helping them improve their production, so we can continue procuring rough gemstones from them."

Moreover, he urged the private and public sectors in Thailand to hone a younger generation of gemstone cutters, as well as jewellery designers and manufacturers to further support the industry.

Events

The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) or GIT and its industry partners are holding the International Chanthaburi Gems and Jewelry Festival 2019 from December 4 to 8. The event is aimed at reinforcing Chanthaburi's status as the city of gems and for the city to be further recognised in the international stage.

This festival, to be held in at least three locations, will also feature events to be conducted by the Chanthaburi Provincial Office and the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Other activities lined up on the sidelines of the festival are gemstone auctions, a gemstone-faceting contest, and two awards programmes on jewellery design, and gemstone and jewellery research, respectively.

"Visitors can discover and directly buy quality gemstones and jewellery products while GIT's Mobile Lab will provide gem-testing and certification services. Moreover, participants will have an opportunity to explore and experience local cultures and lifestyle by visiting tourist attractions related to jewellery crafting in Chanthaburi," Duangkamol Jiambutr, director of GIT, was quoted as saying in a statement.

Key export product

Data from GIT's Gem and Jewelry Information Center showed that in the first five months of 2019, Thailand exported around US$4.61 billion worth of gemstones and jewellery items, down about 10 percent from a year ago. Gems and jewellery pieces are the country's third largest shipments, accounting for 4.54 percent of the total export value.

Thailand sold US$619.09 million worth of coloured gemstones abroad, or about 13.44 percent of total gems and jewellery exports. As much as 80 percent of coloured gemstones worldwide changed hands throughout Thailand for cutting and quality enhancement.

The export value of polished precious gemstones stood at US$405.49 million, up 8.73 percent during the period in review. Thailand's top export destinations are Hong Kong, the US, Switzerland, Italy and India.